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Introduction
Rennes, the capital of Brittany in northwestern France, sits at the confluence of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. This historic city boasts 286 painted timber-framed medieval houses, making it the second-largest collection in France after Strasbourg. With a metropolitan population of 771,320, Rennes combines its rich heritage, exemplified by the 17th-century Parliament of Brittany building, with modern innovation as a significant digital technology hub. The city earned recognition as "the most liveable city in France" in 2018 and serves as home to over 66,000 students, making it France's eighth-largest university campus. Visitors can explore the cultural centre Les Champs Libres, which houses the Museum of Brittany and a science museum, while enjoying local specialities such as galette saucisse and traditional cider served in ceramic bowls.
Interesting Facts about Rennes
- Rennes boasts 286 colourful medieval half-timbered houses, the highest number in Brittany and second only to Strasbourg in France.
- The city's 17th-century Palais du Parlement de Bretagne remains one of Brittany's most prestigious historical monuments.
- Place des Lices hosts France's second-largest weekly market, featuring nearly 300 local producers every Saturday.
- Rennes made history in 2002 as the world's smallest city to operate a metro system.
- Parc du Thabor offers 10 hectares of landscaped gardens featuring French and English designs, rose gardens, and an aviary.
- The city's Mabilais building witnessed groundbreaking tech developments including France's Minitel prototype and ADSL technology.
- After a catastrophic 1720 fire destroyed its medieval core, Rennes pioneered early urban planning by rebuilding in stone with wide streets.
- Home to over 66,000 students, Rennes boasts France's eighth-largest university campus population.
- The local galette saucisse – a pork sausage wrapped in buckwheat pancake – is celebrated as Brittany's answer to the hot dog.
- Rennes earned the title of France's most liveable city in 2018 according to L'Express magazine.
History
Rennes boasts a fascinating history spanning over two millennia, beginning as a small Gallic village called Condate established by the Celtic Redones tribe at the confluence of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. The city flourished under Roman rule as a vital communication centre in Armorica, later becoming one of the three capital cities of the Duchy of Brittany, alongside Nantes and Vannes, with its cathedral serving as the coronation site for Breton dukes.
The medieval period saw Rennes withstand significant challenges, including the English siege of 1356-57, which ended in victory thanks to Bertrand du Guesclin's resistance. A pivotal moment in the city's history came in 1491 when Duchess Anne of Brittany negotiated with Charles VIII of France, leading to Brittany's integration into the French kingdom whilst maintaining certain autonomies, including the Parliament of Brittany. In 1720, a devastating fire destroyed much of the medieval wooden centre, prompting reconstruction in stone that gave the city its current architectural character.
Today's Rennes showcases its rich heritage through its remarkable collection of half-timbered houses, second only to Strasbourg in France, with 286 medieval buildings adorning its historic centre. The city experienced significant transformation during World War II, suffering heavy damage from bombing raids, but emerged to become one of France's fastest-growing cities from 1954 onwards. The carefully preserved old town now delights visitors with its cobbled streets, magnificent palaces, and vibrant cultural scene, making it one of France's most pleasant cities to live in.
Main Attractions
Rennes stands as one of France's most historically rich cities, with a particularly well-preserved medieval centre. The city's layout reflects its history, with the northern part maintaining its medieval street pattern despite a devastating fire in 1720, while the southern portion showcases elegant 18th-century urban planning.
The historic centre of Rennes houses 286 half-timbered houses, representing one of France's most significant collections of medieval architecture. These buildings, dating primarily from the 15th and 16th centuries, feature distinctive wooden frames filled with wattle and daub, often painted in vibrant colours. The streets of Rue Saint-Michel, Rue Saint-Georges, and Rue de la Psallette offer particularly fine examples of this architectural style. The area comes alive in the evenings, especially around Rue Saint-Michel, locally known as 'la rue de la soif' (thirst street) due to its numerous bars and restaurants.
Place des Lices
The Place des Lices, situated in the heart of the old town, hosts France's second-largest food market every Saturday morning. This market, dating back to the 14th century, attracts approximately 10,000 visitors who browse among 300 traders selling local produce, including Brittany's famous seafood, vegetables, and dairy products. The square is surrounded by historic buildings and features two medieval indoor market halls constructed in 1871.
Place du Parlement de Bretagne
The Place du Parlement de Bretagne is dominated by the Parliament building, constructed between 1618 and 1655. This magnificent example of French classical architecture features a restored interior with elaborate ceiling paintings, intricate woodwork, and extensive gilding. The square itself serves as a focal point for civic life and hosts various cultural events throughout the year. The surrounding streets showcase elegant 18th-century townhouses built for parliamentary officials.
Place de la Mairie
Place de la Mairie is a vibrant and historic square that serves as the heart of the city. It is home to the stunning Town Hall of Rennes, a masterpiece of baroque architecture designed by Jacques V Gabriel in the early 18th century following the Great Fire of 1720. The building features two elegant wings flanking a central clock tower and is classified as a Historical Monument. On the opposite side of the square stands the Rennes Opera House, adding to the square's cultural and architectural charm. The area is a popular spot for public events and offers a glimpse into Rennes' rich history and architectural heritage. Visitors can enjoy the lively atmosphere, cafes, and nearby attractions, making it a must-visit destination in Brittany's capital.
Porte Mordelaise
The Porte Mordelaise, constructed in 1452, served as the city's main entrance and holds significant historical importance. Through this gate, Dukes of Brittany would traditionally enter the city for their coronation ceremonies at Saint-Pierre Cathedral. The gate's architecture includes a horseshoe-shaped artillery bulwark and a protected side entrance, demonstrating medieval military engineering. The surrounding ramparts offer views over the lower town and remain one of the few surviving sections of the city's defensive walls.
Saint-Pierre Cathedral
The Saint-Pierre Cathedral, rebuilt in the 19th century after the collapse of its predecessor, presents an impressive example of neo-classical architecture. Its granite towers reach 48 metres high and offer panoramic views of the city for those willing to climb them. The interior features ornate decorations, including a painted ceiling depicting the life of Saint Peter and remarkable stained glass windows.
Saint George Palace
The Saint George Palace, constructed in 1670, represents a fine example of classical French architecture. Its distinctive arched outer walls enclose formal gardens designed in the French style. Originally built as a Benedictine abbey for women, the building now houses various public institutions while maintaining its architectural integrity and elegant gardens.
Place du Champ-Jacquet
The Place du Champ-Jacquet, a small triangular square in the historic centre, offers one of the most photographed views in Rennes. The square is bordered by well-preserved timber-framed houses, including a notable five-storey building from 1614. This square provides an excellent example of how medieval Rennes would have appeared before the 1720 fire.
Saint-Germain Church
Saint-Germain Church, with origins dating back to the 12th century, demonstrates the evolution of architectural styles from Gothic to Renaissance. The church houses remarkable artistic treasures, including a 17th-century organ case and notable stained glass windows. Its location near the Place du Champ-Jacquet makes it an essential stop on any architectural tour of the city.
Top Museums
Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts)
The Museum of Fine Arts in Rennes stands as a cultural cornerstone, renowned for its extensive and diverse collections that span centuries and artistic movements. As one of the most important fine arts museums outside of Paris, it boasts an impressive array of paintings, sculptures, drawings, and objets d'art. The museum's collections include pieces from ancient Egypt up to modern art, offering a comprehensive journey through art history. Its holdings are largely based on the private collection of Christophe-Paul de Robien, a former president of the Parlement of Rennes, whose discerning taste and passion for art laid the foundation for this exceptional institution.
The museum is particularly celebrated for its collection of European paintings from the 14th to the 20th centuries. Visitors can admire masterpieces by renowned artists such as Veronese, Rubens, Jordaens, and Chardin. These paintings represent a wide range of styles and subjects, from religious scenes and portraits to landscapes and still lifes. Furthermore, the Museum of Fine Arts houses an exceptional collection of drawings, including works by some of the greatest masters in art history. Drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Rembrandt are among the highlights, providing an intimate glimpse into the creative processes of these iconic artists.
Museum of Brittany (Musée de Bretagne)
Located within the modern cultural complex of the Champs Libres, the Museum of Brittany is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the rich and complex history and culture of the Breton region. With a collection that spans from prehistoric times to the present day, the museum offers a comprehensive overview of Brittany's past, including its unique traditions, customs, and historical events. The museum's location in the Champs Libres makes it part of a broader cultural hub that also includes a science center and a planetarium, encouraging interdisciplinary learning and exploration.
The Museum of Brittany houses an extensive collection of over 600,000 artifacts, ranging from archaeological finds and ethnographic objects to historical documents and works of art. The museum's exhibits are designed to be interactive and engaging, using multimedia installations and immersive environments to bring historical narratives to life. Visitors can explore topics such as Breton identity, traditional costumes, folk music, and the region's industrial heritage. The museum also addresses contemporary issues facing Brittany, such as environmental concerns, cultural preservation, and the challenges of globalization. By showcasing both the past and present of Brittany, the museum plays a vital role in promoting cultural awareness and understanding.
Frac Bretagne (Regional Fund for Contemporary Art)
Housed in a striking black rectangular building designed by the architect Odile Decq, the Frac Bretagne is a dynamic center for contemporary art in the region. Established in 1981, it was the first of the 'new generation' regional contemporary art funds in France, and has since played a key role in promoting contemporary art at regional, national, and international levels. The building itself is an architectural statement, with its bold design reflecting the innovative and experimental nature of the art it houses.
With a collection of nearly 5,500 works, Frac Bretagne boasts the largest collection among regional Fracs. The collection includes works in a variety of media, including painting, sculpture, photography, video, and installation art. The Frac supports local artists through acquisitions, exhibitions, and residencies, fostering a vibrant artistic community in Brittany. Temporary exhibitions showcase both established and emerging artists, providing a platform for cutting-edge contemporary art. Educational programs and workshops engage audiences of all ages, encouraging dialogue and critical thinking about contemporary art.
Espace des Sciences
The Espace des Sciences is a prominent center for scientific, technical, and industrial culture, designed to make science accessible and engaging for the general public. Located within the Champs Libres cultural center, it complements the Museum of Brittany and the planetarium, creating a hub for learning and discovery. The Espace des Sciences offers visitors the opportunity to explore various scientific topics through interactive exhibits, demonstrations, and hands-on activities. The center aims to promote scientific literacy and inspire curiosity about the world around us.
The Espace des Sciences features three main exhibition halls: Eurêka, the Earth Room, and the Merlin Laboratory. Eurêka hosts temporary exhibitions on a wide range of scientific themes, from astronomy and physics to biology and environmental science. The Earth Room is a permanent exhibition dedicated to the planet Earth, exploring topics such as geology, climate, and biodiversity. The Merlin Laboratory is a hands-on laboratory designed for families and children, offering a fun and educational environment for conducting experiments and learning about scientific principles.
Ecomusée du Pays de Rennes
Located at the Bintinais farm, one of the oldest and largest farms near Rennes, the Ecomusée du Pays de Rennes offers visitors a unique glimpse into the rural history and agricultural traditions of the Rennes area. The museum is situated on a working farm, providing an authentic setting for exploring the region's rural heritage. The Ecomusée aims to preserve and promote the cultural heritage of the Pays de Rennes, highlighting the importance of agriculture in shaping the region's identity.
The museum traces five centuries of the farm's history across three floors, providing context for understanding the unique relationship between the city and its surrounding countryside. Exhibits showcase traditional farming techniques, rural crafts, and the daily life of farmers and their families. Visitors can explore the farm's buildings, including the farmhouse, barn, and stables, as well as see demonstrations of traditional crafts and farming activities. The Ecomusée also hosts events and workshops throughout the year, celebrating the region's rural traditions and promoting sustainable agriculture.
Local Cuisine
Rennes offers a delightful array of Breton culinary treasures that showcase the region's rich gastronomic heritage. The city's most iconic street food is the galette-saucisse, a grilled pork sausage wrapped in a buckwheat crepe, traditionally enjoyed with just a touch of Dijon mustard. The local markets burst with fresh seafood from nearby Cancale, particularly renowned for its UNESCO-listed oysters, whilst restaurants serve delectable langoustines and Bouchot mussels from Mont-Saint-Michel Bay. Traditional delicacies include the hearty
Shopping
Rennes offers diverse shopping experiences across its historic centre and modern districts. The city's retail landscape includes the Centre Commercial Colombia and La Visitation shopping centres, numerous independent boutiques, and designer stores like Galeries Lafayette. The historic old town features cobblestone streets lined with antique shops and specialty food stores, whilst the modern areas house contemporary fashion retailers such as UNIQLO and Bershka. The Marché des Lices, one of France's largest markets, operates with 200-300 local vendors selling regional produce, flowers, and artisanal goods. For unique souvenirs, shops like Breizh Club offer locally-made products including organic cotton clothing and regional specialities. The Saint-Hélier neighbourhood near the train station is particularly notable for vintage shopping.
Nature in and around Rennes
Rennes and its surrounding areas offer a variety of natural attractions for visitors to enjoy. Within the city, Parc du Thabor stands out as a 10-hectare green oasis, featuring magnificent French and English gardens, a rose garden with over 2,000 varieties, and numerous tree species including sequoias and Lebanese cedars. Another popular urban green space is Parc des Gayeulles, which is ideal for outdoor activities. Just outside Rennes, the Vilaine Valley provides scenic landscapes, with Le Boël being a notable site for walks and cycling. The Forest of Paimpont, associated with Arthurian legends, offers further opportunities for nature exploration. For those interested in waterways, the Ille-et-Rance Canal presents an impressive series of 11 locks over 2 kilometres, allowing boats to navigate a 27-metre drop. These natural attractions provide ample opportunities for relaxation, outdoor pursuits, and connecting with nature in and around Rennes.
Thabor Park
The Thabor Park, extending over 10 hectares in the city centre, represents one of France's most remarkable public gardens. Created in the 19th century on the grounds of a former Benedictine abbey, the park combines three distinct styles: a French formal garden, an English landscape garden, and a botanical garden. The rose garden contains over 2,000 varieties, making it one of the richest collections in France. The park also features an aviary housing exotic birds, a music kiosk that hosts concerts in summer, and several children's play areas. The botanical garden section includes greenhouses with tropical and subtropical plants.
River Vilaine Promenade
The River Vilaine, which flows through the city centre, has been extensively developed to create attractive public spaces. The Promenade des Bonnets Rouges extends for one kilometre along the riverbank, featuring contemporary landscaping, water features, and garden areas. This area provides a pleasant contrast to the historic centre and serves as a popular location for outdoor recreation and events.
Getting Around
Getting to and around Rennes is remarkably straightforward. The city is well-connected to Paris via high-speed TGV trains, with hourly services taking just 90 minutes from Paris Montparnasse station. From Rennes Airport, located 11 km south of the city, you can reach the centre by taxi (€18, 20 minutes) or bus line C6 (€1.70, 35 minutes). Once in Rennes, the comprehensive STAR public transport network makes navigation effortless. Two metro lines operate daily from 5:10 to 00:45 (extending until 1:45 on Thursday through Saturday), complemented by an extensive bus network with 50 routes. A single ticket costs €1.50 and is valid for one hour of unlimited transfers across both metro and bus services. The compact city centre is perfect for walking, whilst cyclists can take advantage of the Vélo STAR bike-sharing scheme, costing €1 per hour. For those driving, eight park-and-ride facilities are available around the city, offering free parking when using public transport.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Rennes is from May to October, when the weather is most favourable and the city comes alive with events and activities. Summer months, particularly July and August, offer the warmest temperatures, with daytime highs reaching 23-25°C, perfect for exploring the historic centre and enjoying outdoor festivals. However, these months also tend to be the busiest with tourists. For a more tranquil experience with pleasant weather, consider visiting in May, June, or September. During these months, temperatures are mild, ranging from 18-23°C, and you can enjoy the city's beautiful parks and gardens in full bloom. Autumn, especially September and October, provides a lovely atmosphere with changing foliage and fewer crowds, whilst still offering comfortable temperatures for sightseeing. Regardless of when you choose to visit, be prepared for some rainfall, as Rennes experiences moderate precipitation throughout the year.