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Lyon Travel Guide

Lyon, Rhône-Alpes (© raoulgalop - Fotolia.com)

Introduction

Lyon, France's third-largest city by population, sits at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, 391 km southeast of Paris. The city's metropolitan area has 2.3 million inhabitants and boasts the largest ensemble of Renaissance buildings in Europe, with over 5 square kilometers protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Founded by the Romans in the 1st century BCE, Lyon served as the capital of Gaul for over 300 years and has maintained its significance as a major economic hub, particularly in banking, chemical, pharmaceutical, and biotech industries. The city is renowned for its gastronomy, historical landmarks, and the annual Fête des lumières light festival, while also being France's second-largest student city with nearly 200,000 students. The city's unique traboules (hidden passageways) in Vieux Lyon offer a glimpse into its silk-weaving past, while the modern Confluence district showcases cutting-edge architecture.


Interesting Facts about Lyon

  • Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage city, renowned for its rich historical and cultural heritage, featuring a blend of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance architecture.
  • The Lumière brothers invented the cinematograph in Lyon in 1894.
  • The city hosts the famous Fête des Lumières, a spectacular festival of lights held annually in December, which is free to attend and attracts visitors worldwide.
  • Lyon is home to two remarkably preserved Roman theatres, including the Ancient Theatre of Fourvière, which dates back to 17 BCE.
  • The city's historic centre, Vieux Lyon, is one of the largest medieval quarters in Europe, offering a glimpse into Lyon's deep-rooted past.
  • Lyon is celebrated for its gastronomy, being the birthplace of many traditional French dishes and home to some of the world's most renowned restaurants.
  • Lyon hosts the international headquarters of Interpol, Euronews and International Agency for Research on Cancer.

History

Lyon, founded by the Romans in 43 BCE as Lugdunum, served as the capital of Roman Gaul and was the birthplace of two Roman emperors: Claudius and Caracalla. The city's strategic location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers made it a vital communications hub during Roman times. After the Roman period, Lyon became part of Lotharingia, then the Kingdom of Burgundy, and later the Holy Roman Empire, before being annexed by France in 1312. The city flourished during the Renaissance as a major financial centre, particularly due to its silk trade and printing industry, becoming Europe's silk-manufacturing capital by the 17th century. During the French Revolution, Lyon endured a two-month siege and witnessed the execution of 2,000 people after supporting the Girondists against the Convention. The city played a crucial role during World War II as a centre of French Resistance, whilst simultaneously serving as the headquarters for Klaus Barbie, known as the "Butcher of Lyon". Throughout its 2,000-year history, Lyon has maintained its architectural heritage remarkably well, having never experienced major disasters such as earthquakes, fires, or extensive bombing, resulting in its historic centre being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.


Main Attractions

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)

Vieux Lyon, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the heart of the city's historic charm. This medieval and Renaissance neighbourhood is characterised by its narrow cobblestone streets and well-preserved architecture.

Key attractions in Vieux Lyon:

  • Saint Jean Cathedral: A stunning example of Gothic architecture
  • Rue Saint-Jean and Rue du Boeuf: The main streets lined with traditional bouchons (local restaurants), charming boutiques, and pastel-coloured buildings
  • Traboules: Hidden passageways that connect streets through historic buildings, offering a glimpse into Lyon's fascinating past

Fourvière Hill

Perched atop Fourvière Hill, you'll find some of Lyon's most iconic landmarks.

Must-see sights:

  • Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière: This 19th-century basilica offers stunning views of the city
  • Ancient Roman Theatre: Well-preserved ruins that are still used for modern-day concerts and festivals
  • Panoramic views: The esplanade provides breathtaking vistas of Lyon
Lyon Cathedral by the Saône River in the Vieux Lyon District (ID 340386971 © Alexandr Kornienko | Dreamstime.com)
Lyon Cathedral by the Saône River in the Vieux Lyon District

Presqu'île

The Presqu'île, or peninsula, is the heart of Lyon's shopping and classical architecture.

Notable attractions:

  • Place Bellecour: Europe's largest pedestrian square and home to the city's tourist office
  • Place des Terreaux: A landmark plaza featuring the Bartholdi Fountain, created by the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty
  • Hôtel de Ville (City Hall): An impressive 17th-century building

La Croix-Rousse

This bohemian neighbourhood, known for its history in silk production, offers a different flavour of Lyon.

Highlights:

  • La Croix-Rousse traboules: Hidden passageways unique to this area
  • Vibrant atmosphere: Explore the streets between Hôtel de Ville and La Croix-Rousse for nice bars and restaurants

Rivers and Parks

Lyon's natural attractions provide a refreshing contrast to its urban landscape.

Key spots:

  • Boat cruises: Take a scenic trip on the Saône or Rhône rivers
  • Parc de la Tête d'Or: France's largest urban park, perfect for a leisurely stroll

Unique Experiences

  • Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières): If visiting in early December, don't miss this spectacular light festival
  • Culinary delights: Sample local specialities in a traditional bouchon or at Les Halles Bocuse food market

Remember to consider purchasing a Lyon City Card for free access to public transport and many attractions. As you explore, keep an eye out for the city's hidden mosaics and enjoy the illuminated classical buildings at night.

Theatre des Celestins, Lyon (ID 17512071 © Bogdan Lazar | Dreamstime.com)
Theatre des Celestins, Lyon

Top Museums

Musée des Confluences

This modern science and anthropology museum is one of Lyon's most popular attractions. Located at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, it features:

  • Dramatic modern architecture
  • Exhibitions on natural history, anthropology, and cultures
  • Nearly 3.5 million artifacts in its collections
  • Topics ranging from natural sciences to human sciences and technology

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts)

Considered one of the largest and most important art museums in France, this museum offers:

  • A vast collection spanning from ancient times to contemporary art
  • Works by Impressionist masters like Degas, Monet, and Pissarro
  • An extensive sculpture collection, including Rodin's "The Kiss"
  • A beautiful courtyard garden in a former abbey cloister

Musée Miniature et Cinéma (Cinema and Miniature Museum)

This unique museum is a favorite among visitors. It features:

  • Hyper-realistic miniature everyday scenes
  • Movie props and special effects exhibits
  • A perfect blend of art and cinema history
  • Interactive displays suitable for all ages

Musée Lumière (Lumière Museum)

Dedicated to the inventors of cinema, this museum offers:

  • The story of the cinematograph's invention
  • Exhibits in the former Lumière family villa
  • A journey through the evolution of cinema

Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation

This important historical museum focuses on:

  • Lyon's role as the capital of the French Resistance during World War II
  • Exhibitions on the Resistance movement and deportation of Jews
  • Educational and moving displays with personal stories
Panoramic view of Lyon from Fourvière (ID 40458941 © Beatrice Preve | Dreamstime.comm)
Panoramic view of Lyon from Fourvière

Local Cuisine

Lyon rightfully holds the title of France's gastronomic capital, boasting over 4,000 restaurants and a culinary heritage dating back to the 16th century. The city's traditional eateries, known as bouchons, serve hearty local specialities in an unpretentious atmosphere with red-checkered tablecloths. Signature dishes include the delightful Salade Lyonnaise with its crispy lardons and poached egg, the iconic quenelle de brochet (pike dumplings in creamy sauce), and the celebrated Rosette de Lyon sausage, which is cured for several months and traditionally served as an aperitif with local cheeses. The local cuisine showcases both refined dishes and rustic fare, from the elegant pâté en croûte to the more adventurous tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe). For cheese enthusiasts, the creamy Saint-Marcellin, which holds a Protected Geographical Indication, offers a perfect conclusion to any meal.


Shopping

The city's main retail hub is the Presqu'île district, where the pedestrianised Rue de la République stretches for one kilometre between Place Bellecour and Place des Terreaux, hosting major retail chains and department stores. For luxury shopping, the Carré d'Or area features over 70 high-end boutiques including Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermès. The city boasts several modern shopping centres, with Westfield La Part-Dieu being Europe's largest urban shopping centre, housing some 200 shops. For those seeking unique finds, the slopes of Croix-Rousse hill feature independent designers and artisanal shops, whilst Les Puces du Canal, France's second-largest flea market, operates on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sunday mornings. Food enthusiasts shouldn't miss Les Halles Paul Bocuse, an indoor market perfect for sampling and purchasing local specialities.


Nature in and around Lyon

Lyon offers a remarkable array of natural attractions that provide a refreshing escape from urban life. The city's top park is the magnificent Parc de la Tête d'Or, a 117-hectare urban oasis featuring vast meadows, a serene lake, century-old trees, and a free zoo housing over 300 animals. The city's commitment to green spaces is evident in its more than 300 public parks and the beautifully redeveloped banks of the Rhône and Saône rivers, which now serve as popular leisure spots. For those willing to venture slightly beyond the city, several stunning lakes offer natural swimming opportunities, including the emerald waters of Lac d'Aiguebelette and the crystal-clear Lac de Paladru, both just an hour's journey from Lyon. The surrounding countryside, particularly the Balcons du Dauphiné region, provides excellent opportunities for hiking, cycling along the ViaRhôna route, and wildlife spotting in numerous Sensitive Natural Spaces.


Getting Around

Lyon boasts France's second-largest public transport system, operated by TCL (Transports en Commun Lyonnais), which provides comprehensive coverage across 72 communes. The network encompasses 4 metro lines, 7 tramway lines, 2 funicular railways, and over 130 bus and trolleybus routes, serving the city and its surroundings from 5 am until 12:30 am daily. The system is remarkably efficient, with major interchange stations like Bellecour, Part-Dieu, and Charpennes connecting various transport modes. Visitors can purchase tickets from vending machines at metro and tramway stations, TCL sales offices, or authorised retailers, with a single ticket valid for one hour of travel across all modes of transport. The network is largely accessible to persons with reduced mobility, and for added convenience, the city offers 7,100 park-and-ride spaces that are free to use with a valid TCL transport ticket.


Best Time to Visit

The optimal time to visit Lyon is during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when temperatures are pleasantly mild, ranging from 13°C to 22°C. These shoulder seasons offer comfortable conditions for exploring the city whilst avoiding the peak summer crowds and elevated prices. Spring brings blooming flowers and vibrant parks, particularly in the Parc de la Tête d'Or with its 16,000 rosebushes. Autumn treats visitors to stunning fall foliage and numerous cultural events, including the Contemporary Art Biennale. Whilst summer (June to August) brings warm temperatures and festivals, it can become quite hot and crowded, with temperatures reaching up to 30°C. Winter, though cold with temperatures between 2°C and 10°C, offers its own charm, especially during the magnificent Festival of Lights in early December.