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Introduction
Dijon, the capital of the Côte-d'Or département and Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France, lies 326 kilometres southeast of Paris at the confluence of the Ouche and Suzon rivers. This historic city, which dates back to Neolithic times, gained prominence as the seat of the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th to late 15th centuries, establishing itself as a significant European centre of art, learning and science. The city's rich architectural heritage spans multiple periods, including Capetian, Gothic and Renaissance styles, with its distinctive Burgundian polychrome roofs featuring glazed terracotta tiles in geometric patterns. Today, Dijon serves as a major administrative, commercial and tourist centre, renowned for its gastronomic fair, mustard production, and historical landmarks, including the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy and the Gothic Cathedral of Saint-Bénigne. The city is famous for its mustard, its gingerbread, as well as the Kir and Crême de cassis liqueurs.
Interesting Facts about Dijon
- Dijon serves as the capital of the Burgundy-Franche-Comté region and was once the seat of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy.
- The city's historic centre, with its medieval and Renaissance architecture, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015.
- Dijon mustard originated here in 1856 when a local producer substituted verjuice (unripe grape juice) for vinegar in the recipe.
- Gustave Eiffel, designer of Paris's iconic Eiffel Tower, was born in Dijon in 1832.
- The city features distinctive Burgundian polychrome roofs made from geometric patterns of glazed terracotta tiles.
- Dijon hosts an annual International and Gastronomic Fair attracting over 200,000 visitors each autumn.
- The Owl's Trail (Parcours de la Chouette) guides visitors through historic sites using bronze owl markers embedded in pavements.
- Notre-Dame de Dijon church houses a carved stone owl statue considered a good luck charm when touched with the left hand.
- The Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy now contains France's oldest art museum outside Paris, with free admission.
- Dijon's covered market, Les Halles, was designed by Gustave Eiffel and remains a hub for local Burgundian specialities.
History
Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, traces its origins to the Neolithic period, when it was established as a Roman settlement called Divio along the strategic route between Lyon and Paris. The city evolved into a significant cultural and religious centre, with the Saint-Bénigne Abbey becoming a cornerstone of its early development. By the 10th century, Dijon had established itself as a prominent trade hub, setting the stage for its future prominence.
The city experienced its golden age during the 14th and 15th centuries under the Valois Dukes of Burgundy, including Philip the Bold and Charles the Bold. These rulers transformed Dijon into one of Europe's foremost centres of art, learning, and science. Their tremendous wealth, partly derived from their control over Flanders, enabled the construction of magnificent architectural projects such as the Palace of the Dukes and the Chartreuse de Champmol. The creation of the prestigious Order of the Golden Fleece during this period further elevated Dijon's status as a cultural powerhouse.
Modern-day Dijon seamlessly blends its rich historical legacy with contemporary life. The city centre, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, showcases remarkably preserved medieval architecture, including distinctive half-timbered houses and Gothic churches. Today, Dijon stands as a testament to French cultural heritage, renowned not only for its architectural splendour but also for its significant contributions to gastronomy and wine culture.
Main Attractions
Dijon, the historic capital of Burgundy, offers a rich tapestry of architectural and cultural attractions throughout its well-preserved city centre. The city's medieval core, largely spared from wartime destruction, presents visitors with an authentic glimpse into centuries of French history, particularly from its golden age as the capital of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy.
Historic Buildings
The Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy stands as the city's most prominent landmark, dominating the historic centre from its position on Place de la Liberation. This UNESCO World Heritage site, which now serves as the city hall, represents a remarkable blend of architectural styles from the 14th to the 18th centuries. The palace's most striking feature is the Philippe le Bon Tower, rising 46 metres and offering spectacular panoramic views of Dijon and the surrounding countryside. Visitors must book a guided tour to climb its 316 steps, but the vista of Burgundian rooftops and spires makes the effort worthwhile. The palace's courtyard and wings showcase both Gothic and Classical architectural elements, reflecting its evolution through different periods.
Notre-Dame Church, constructed between 1230 and 1250, stands as one of the finest examples of Burgundian Gothic architecture. Its western facade is particularly noteworthy for its three rows of remarkable gargoyles, each with distinct characteristics and expressions. The church's clock tower, dating from 1382, features the famous Jacquemarts - mechanical figures that strike the bells. These automata, originally from Courtrai, were brought to Dijon as war spoils by Philip the Bold. Inside, visitors can find one of France's oldest wooden statues: an 11th-century Black Virgin. The church's exterior also features the famous owl sculpture, worn smooth by countless touching hands seeking good luck.
The Chartreuse de Champmol, though now serving as a hospital centre, represents an important historical site. Established in 1378 by Philippe le Hardi (Philip the Bold), this former Carthusian monastery once housed some of medieval Burgundy's greatest artistic treasures. While many original buildings were lost during the French Revolution, surviving elements include the Well of Moses, created by Claus Sluter, and the portal of the chapel, both masterpieces of medieval sculpture.
Parks and Gardens
Dijon's parks provide peaceful retreats within the urban landscape. The Jardin de l'Arquebuse, spanning 5 hectares, represents more than just a park - it's a botanical sanctuary housing 1,500 plant varieties and 250 tree species. This eco-certified space includes themed gardens, a small arboretum, and a planetarium. Its location, connected to Dijon-Ville station via a footbridge, makes it easily accessible to visitors. The park's layout reflects both French and English garden designs, with formal beds alongside more naturalistic areas.
The Jardin Darcy, though smaller, holds significant historical importance and has been classified as a historic monument since 2015. This elevated park features carefully maintained walking paths, shaded benches, and a terrace overlooking an ornamental pond. Its iconic polar bear sculpture, created by François Pompon, has become one of Dijon's beloved landmarks. The garden's position atop the city's first water reservoir makes it an engineering monument as well as a recreational space.
Public Squares
The city's public squares serve as vibrant social hubs. Place François-Rude, commonly known as Place du Bareuzai, exemplifies the typical Burgundian square. Its focal point is the Le Vendangeur fountain, depicting a bare-footed winegrower pressing grapes - a reference to the region's viticultural heritage. The square is surrounded by historic buildings, including the remarkable Au Moulin à Vent, with its decorative timber framing.
Place de la Libération, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart (who also designed Versailles' grounds), presents a perfect semicircle of harmonious 17th-century architecture. Its modern fountains, installed during recent renovations, create a dynamic atmosphere while respecting the square's historic character. The space transforms throughout the year, hosting markets, cultural events, and serving as a popular gathering spot for both locals and tourists.
Historic Gates
The city's historic gates provide insight into its medieval defensive system. The Porte Guillaume, reconstructed between 1786 and 1788 in neoclassical style, replaced a medieval gate that had controlled access to the city for centuries. Initially called Porte Condé, it was renamed during the French Revolution and later dedicated to Guillaume de Volpiano, a significant religious figure in Dijon's history.
Walking Tour
The Owl Trail (La Chouette) offers visitors an innovative way to explore Dijon's heritage. This self-guided walking tour, marked by brass owl plaques embedded in the ground, connects the city's major attractions while revealing hidden architectural gems and lesser-known historical sites. The route can be followed using traditional guides from the Tourist Office or via a modern smartphone application, making historical discovery accessible to all visitors.
Top Museums
Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts)
The crown jewel of Dijon's museum scene is undoubtedly the Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts), nestled within the magnificent Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy. Founded in 1787, this museum stands as one of France's oldest and most revered art institutions. Its vast collection, encompassing approximately 130,000 works, spans a remarkable timeline from antiquity to the present day. Visitors can lose themselves in the medieval collections, admiring intricately crafted art objects, sculptures that breathe with life, and paintings from the Italian, Flemish, Swiss, and German schools. The museum also boasts masterpieces by renowned artists such as Delacroix, Titian, Champaigne, Géricault, Manet, and Monet, offering a panoramic view of art history. Perhaps the most captivating treasures within its walls are the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, Philip the Bold and John the Fearless. These awe-inspiring monuments are adorned with meticulously carved alabaster pleurants (weepers), figures that embody grief and artistic mastery, making them unforgettable highlights of the museum's collection.
Magnin Museum
In contrast to the grandeur of the Palace, the Magnin Museum offers a more intimate artistic experience. Located in the elegant Hôtel Lantin, one of Dijon's most exquisite private mansions, this museum houses a diverse collection of approximately 2,000 works, meticulously assembled by Maurice and Jeanne Magnin. Their passion for art is evident in the museum's eclectic mix of paintings, drawings, and decorative arts. The Magnin Museum showcases Northern school paintings, including works by Brueghel the Younger, whose detailed scenes of everyday life are both charming and insightful. Italian paintings from Venetian, Lombard, and Neapolitan schools are also well-represented, offering a glimpse into the artistic styles of different regions. French paintings by artists such as Eustache Le Sueur and Laurent de La Hyre further enrich the collection. A notable aspect of the Magnin Museum is its extensive collection of drawings, which provides a behind-the-scenes look at the creative process of various artists.
Museum of Burgundian Life (Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne)
To understand the everyday lives of Burgundians in the past, a visit to the Museum of Burgundian Life (Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne) is essential. Situated in the cloister of the Monastère des Bernardines, this ethnography museum offers a fascinating glimpse into Burgundian life at the turn of the 20th century. One of its most captivating features is a reconstruction of eleven Dijon shops in the "rue des Boutiques." Stepping into this recreated street is like travelling back in time, allowing visitors to experience the sights and sounds of a bustling Burgundian town. Other exhibits showcase local customs, traditions, and daily life, providing a comprehensive understanding of the region's cultural heritage.
Museum of Sacred Art (Musée d'Art Sacré)
For those interested in religious art and history, the Museum of Sacred Art (Musée d'Art Sacré) is a must-see. Housed in the Sainte-Anne Church, this museum is dedicated to Burgundian Catholic sacred art. The museum's diverse range of artefacts includes sculptures, paintings, and furniture, all reflecting the region's deep-rooted religious traditions. Objects of Catholic worship and a significant collection of relics are on display, offering insights into the spiritual practices of the past. One of the museum's highlights is its extensive collection of vestments and liturgical ornaments from the 18th and 19th centuries, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship and artistry involved in creating these sacred items.
Rude Museum
The Rude Museum offers a unique perspective on the work of François Rude, a Dijon-born sculptor who achieved international acclaim. Located in the transept and choir of the former Saint-Etienne church, the museum displays casts of Rude's main works. While the originals may be scattered across the globe, the casts provide visitors with the opportunity to appreciate the scope and artistry of Rude's creations. Of particular note are the casts of his famous sculpture on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, a powerful and dynamic work that captures the spirit of French patriotism.
Consortium Museum
For those with a taste for modern and contemporary art, the Consortium Museum is a must-visit destination. This contemporary art centre, situated near Dijon's city centre, is housed in a 4,000 m² building transformed by architects Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines. The museum hosts around ten temporary exhibitions per year, often showcasing the work of international artists. These exhibitions explore a wide range of themes and artistic styles, providing visitors with a glimpse into the ever-evolving world of contemporary art. In addition to its temporary exhibitions, the Consortium Museum boasts a permanent collection of nearly 400 contemporary works, representing a diverse range of artistic voices and perspectives.
Local Cuisine
Dijon, nestled in the heart of Burgundy, offers a remarkable culinary heritage that extends far beyond its famous mustard. The city's gastronomic treasures include four major specialities: the world-renowned Dijon mustard, crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur), traditional pain d'épices (a unique gingerbread made with wheat flour and aniseed), and exceptional local wines. Food enthusiasts will delight in the city's signature dishes such as œufs en meurette (poached eggs in a rich Burgundy wine sauce), the hearty boeuf bourguignon, and the classic coq au vin. The bustling Les Halles market, open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday mornings, showcases the region's finest produce, from fresh vegetables and artisanal cheeses to local meats and wines. The city also boasts several Michelin-starred restaurants where traditional Burgundian cuisine is elevated to an art form.
Shopping
Dijon offers diverse shopping options across its pedestrianised city centre and retail parks along the ring road. The main shopping thoroughfare, Rue de la Liberté, features national and international high street brands, whilst the historic centre houses 1,400 stores amidst medieval architecture. The city's retail highlights include Les Halles market, designed by Gustave Eiffel, which operates on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, offering local produce, cheeses, meats and regional specialities. For wine enthusiasts, speciality shops like Dr Wine and Chez Bruno provide extensive selections of regional and French wines. The Toison d'Or shopping centre contains 160 shops, and additional retail parks can be found in Dijon Nord, Quetigny, and Portes du Sud. Local speciality shops, including the famous Maison Maille mustard shop and Fromagerie Porcheret, offer authentic Burgundian products.
Nature in and around Dijon
The city boasts several parks and gardens, including the 33-hectare Parc de la Colombière, a French-style garden with 3,500 trees, wildlife, and an accrobranche course. The Arquebuse Park features a botanical garden, arboretum, and rose garden, alongside a planetarium and Natural History Museum. For those seeking larger green spaces, the Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan, covering 285,000 hectares, provides extensive hiking trails and diverse wildlife. Closer to the city, Lac Kir offers a 3.6-kilometre lakeside trail, a beach, and water sports facilities. The Combe à la Serpent Natural Park, west of Dijon, presents a 12.1-kilometre loop trail through wooded areas and vineyards. These natural attractions provide ample opportunities for walking, cycling, and enjoying the region's flora and fauna.
Getting Around
Dijon is easily accessible by high-speed TGV trains, with frequent connections from Paris taking just 1.5 hours. Once in Dijon, the city offers an excellent public transport network. Two tram lines operate from 5:30 am until 1:00 am daily, running every 5-15 minutes and connecting all major attractions. The comprehensive Divia bus network covers the entire metropole, whilst a free city centre shuttle runs every 10 minutes between 8 am and 7 pm Monday to Saturday. Single tickets cost €1.70 and are valid for one hour on all services. For cyclists, the DiviaVélodi bike-sharing scheme offers 400 bikes across 40 stations throughout the city, with the first 30 minutes free. The city centre is also wonderfully walkable, taking just 40 minutes to cross on foot. For those requiring taxis, over 70 vehicles operate 24/7 throughout the city.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Dijon is generally from May to September, when the weather is most favourable for exploring this charming French city. During these months, temperatures are pleasantly warm, ranging from 15°C to 24°C, providing ideal conditions for strolling through the cobbled streets, discovering historical sites, and enjoying outdoor activities. Spring and early autumn are particularly delightful, with May and September offering mild temperatures and fewer crowds compared to the peak summer months of July and August. These shoulder seasons also coincide with the blooming of flowers and trees, creating a picturesque backdrop for sightseeing. While summer brings the warmest weather, it's also the busiest and most expensive time to visit. For those who prefer a quieter experience and don't mind cooler temperatures, late autumn can be an excellent time to explore Dijon's rich cultural heritage and indulge in its renowned culinary scene.