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Albi Travel Guide

Albi, Midi-Pyrénées (© Benh LIEU SONG - CC BY-SA 3.0 Unported license.)

Introduction

Albi is the capital of the Tarn department in the Occitanie region. Situated on the banks of the Tarn River, Albi is renowned for its stunning red brick architecture, particularly the Gothic Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, which was built between the 13th and 15th centuries. The city is also home to the 13th-century Berbie Palace, now housing the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, and the Romanesque Saint-Salvi church with its beautiful cloister. Albi's rich history includes being a centre of Catharism and the site of the Albigensian Crusade. The Episcopal City of Albi was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010, attracting visitors with its unique blend of medieval architecture and cultural heritage.


Interesting Facts about Orléans

  • Albi, nicknamed "The Red City", is known for its distinctive red brick architecture, including the famous Sainte-Cécile Cathedral and the Berbie Palace.
  • The city's Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, is the largest brick cathedral in France and a masterpiece of Southern Gothic style.
  • Albi was the birthplace of renowned painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, whose works are now displayed in the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum housed in the former Bishops' Palace.
  • The Berbie Palace, now home to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, is one of the oldest and best-preserved castles in France, predating even the Palais des Papes in Avignon.
  • Albi's historic episcopal city, covering 63 hectares, has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • The city played a significant role in the Albigensian Crusade against the Cathars, giving its name to this historical event.
  • Albi's Old Bridge, dating back to the 11th century, spans the Tarn River and contributed to the city's economic growth through tolls.
  • The city was once a major centre for the production of woad, a blue dye that brought considerable wealth to local merchants during the Renaissance.
  • Albi's Saint-Salvi Church boasts a splendid cloister dating from the 11th to 15th centuries, featuring Romanesque arches and Gothic capitals.
  • The city is home to the elite Lycée Lapérouse, a prestigious high school located in a former monastery.
Albi (© Juan Moyano | Dreamstime.com)

History

Situated on the banks of the River Tarn, it flourished as a Roman settlement known as Civitas Albigensium. The city's growth accelerated in the 11th century with the construction of the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge), which bolstered trade and commerce. However, Albi's most tumultuous period came in the 13th century during the Albigensian Crusade, a campaign against the Cathar heretics that ultimately led to the annexation of the region by the French Crown.

In the aftermath of the crusade, Albi transformed into a powerful episcopal city. The imposing Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, a masterpiece of Southern French Gothic architecture, was built between the late 13th and early 16th centuries. This fortified cathedral, constructed from distinctive red and orange local brick, stands as a testament to the restored power of the Roman Catholic clergy. Alongside it, the vast Palais de la Berbie (Berbie Palace) was erected, serving as the bishop's residence and now housing a museum dedicated to the works of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, a native of Albi.

The city experienced a period of prosperity during the Renaissance, largely due to the cultivation of woad, a plant used to produce blue dye. This economic boom is reflected in the fine houses built during this era. Over the centuries, Albi has carefully preserved its architectural heritage, which showcases various brilliant periods of its history. In recognition of its well-preserved medieval urban landscape, the Episcopal City of Albi was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2010, cementing its status as a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and travellers alike.


Main Attractions

Sainte-Cécile Cathedral

The Sainte-Cécile Cathedral stands as a monumental testament to Southern Gothic architecture and the city's rich religious heritage. This colossal structure, the world's largest brick-built cathedral, dominates Albi's skyline with its imposing presence. The cathedral's exterior presents a fortress-like appearance, its austere façade a stark contrast to the ornate interior that awaits visitors. Inside, the cathedral reveals itself as a treasure trove of art and history. The vaulted ceiling, adorned with intricate frescoes, creates a celestial canopy above. The Last Judgement, a massive mural dating back to the 15th century, covers the western wall, serving as both a spiritual guide and a masterpiece of medieval art. The choir, separated from the nave by an elaborate rood screen, houses exquisitely carved statues and reliefs that narrate biblical stories in stone.

Palais de la Berbie (Berbie Palace)

Adjacent to the cathedral, the Palais de la Berbie presents a formidable sight with its robust fortifications and elegant architecture. This former episcopal palace, one of the oldest in France, exemplifies the power and wealth of the Church in medieval Albi. The palace's construction mirrors that of the cathedral, utilising the same distinctive pink brick that gives Albi its characteristic hue. Behind the palace lies a meticulously manicured French garden, a serene oasis amidst the urban landscape. The garden's geometric patterns and carefully pruned vegetation offer a stark contrast to the rugged medieval architecture surrounding it. From the palace's terraces, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Tarn River, its banks dotted with traditional Albigeois boats and the remnants of old mills that once harnessed the river's power.

Pont Vieux (Old Bridge)

The Pont Vieux, spanning the Tarn River, serves as a living link to Albi's medieval past. This 11th-century bridge, with its graceful arches reflected in the river's surface, has witnessed centuries of the city's history. The bridge's construction marked a significant moment in Albi's development, facilitating trade and connecting the city to the wider region. Today, the Pont Vieux offers more than just a means of crossing the river; it provides a unique vantage point from which to admire Albi's skyline. The juxtaposition of the bridge's weathered stonework against the backdrop of the towering cathedral and the Berbie Palace creates a scene that captures the essence of Albi's historical continuity.

Episcopal City

The Episcopal City, recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, encompasses the heart of old Albi. This area is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys, each turn revealing new aspects of the city's rich architectural heritage. The predominant use of pink brick throughout the Episcopal City creates a warm, cohesive aesthetic that is uniquely Albigeois. The area is divided into four historic quarters, each with its own character: Castelvieil, the oldest part of the city; Castelnau, developed in the Middle Ages; Bourg Saint-Salvi, centred around the collegiate church; and Quartier des Combes, once home to tanners and dyers who worked along the river.

Saint-Salvi Collegiate Church

The Saint-Salvi Collegiate Church, though often overshadowed by the grandeur of the cathedral, holds its own historical and architectural significance. This church, dedicated to the first bishop of Albi, represents a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, reflecting the evolving architectural tastes of medieval Albi. The church's most notable feature is its 13th-century cloister, a rare surviving example of Romanesque architecture in the region. Although only the southern gallery remains, it provides a glimpse into the contemplative life of the clergy in medieval times. The cloister's carved capitals, adorned with intricate foliage and figurative scenes, offer a wealth of detail for those who take the time to examine them closely.

Tarn Riverbanks

The banks of the River Tarn provide a natural counterpoint to the city's architectural wonders. The river, which has shaped Albi's history and economy for centuries, now offers a peaceful retreat for residents and visitors alike. The "Echappée verte" path follows the river's course, allowing walkers to experience the changing moods of the water and the surrounding landscape. From this vantage point, the city's landmarks take on a new aspect, with the fortified walls of the Berbie Palace rising dramatically from the riverbank. The old mills that dot the river's edge stand as reminders of Albi's industrial past, when the Tarn's waters powered the city's economy. Today, these restored structures add to the picturesque quality of the riverscape.

Cordeliers Neighbourhood

The Cordeliers neighbourhood represents Albi's cultural heart, blending historical significance with contemporary artistic expression. This district takes its name from the Cordeliers, a Franciscan order that established a convent here in the 13th century. Today, the area is home to a collection of modern cultural institutions that continue the neighbourhood's tradition of intellectual and artistic pursuits. The Grand Théâtre des Cordeliers stands out as a bold architectural statement, its façade adorned with a striking golden copper aluminium mesh that catches the light and transforms the building's appearance throughout the day. This modern structure, housing performance spaces and exhibition areas, sits comfortably alongside the historic buildings of the district, creating a dialogue between Albi's past and its cultural present.


Top Museums

Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

Located in the historic Palais de la Berbie, this museum is dedicated to the works of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, one of the most renowned artists from Albi. It houses the largest public collection of his works, including paintings, lithographs, and drawings. The museum showcases Toulouse-Lautrec's early works, his depictions of Parisian nightlife, and his famous posters, such as the one for Le Moulin Rouge. Visitors can explore the majestic rooms of the former episcopal palace, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Musée Lapérouse

This museum is dedicated to the maritime expeditions of Jean-François Galaup de La Pérouse, a notable navigator from Albi. It features artifacts from his voyages, including items recovered from the wrecks of his ships, L'Astrolabe and La Boussole. The museum also displays navigation instruments, uniforms, and models, offering insights into the maritime history of the late 18th century.

Le LAIT (Laboratoire Artistique International du Tarn)

Le LAIT is a contemporary art centre that hosts various exhibitions, concerts, and performances throughout the year. It supports emerging and established artists by providing a platform for their work. The centre is located in a former mill and vermicelli factory, offering a unique space for artistic expression.

Musée du Saut du Tarn

Situated near Albi, this museum is dedicated to the industrial heritage of the Saut du Tarn site. It tells the story of the metalworking industry that once thrived there, producing tools and steel under the TALABOT and SDT brands. The museum is housed in a historic hydroelectric power plant and features interactive exhibits, films, and demonstrations.

Maison du Vieil Alby

This medieval house is a testament to Albi's rich architectural heritage. It showcases the typical construction of medieval Albi, with its timber framing and overhanging upper floors. Visitors can explore the house to gain insights into the daily life and architecture of medieval times.

Cathedral Treasury

While not exclusively a museum, the Cathedral Treasury in Albi is worth mentioning for its historical and cultural significance. It houses valuable artifacts related to the cathedral and offers a glimpse into the city's religious heritage.

Musée de la Mode

Located in the former Convent of the Annonciades, this museum presents a collection of fashion items from the 18th century to the 1970s. It provides a fascinating look at the evolution of fashion over the centuries.


Local Cuisine

The city's gastronomy is a celebration of local produce and traditional savoir-faire. Visitors can savour bougnettes, large pork sausages eaten cold, and melsat, a type of white sausage. The region is renowned for its duck confit and foie gras, as well as hearty dishes like beef stew à l'Albigeoise and lamb with juniper. For a unique starter, try radishes with salted liver, a flavourful combination of radish slices and pork liver. The tripe à l'Albigeoise, flavoured with saffron, is a local delicacy not to be missed. Sweet tooths will delight in croustade, a flaky tart filled with fruits, and gimblettes, little dough rings flavoured with orange flower water. To complement these dishes, indulge in the renowned Gaillac wines produced in the nearby vineyards.


Getting There & Around

The city is well-connected by train and bus services, making it easily accessible from major French cities. Once in Albi, visitors can take advantage of the efficient public transit system, including regular buses and three free electric shuttles that connect the city centre to local car parks and train stations. These shuttles operate Monday to Saturday, approximately every 15 minutes, and offer the convenience of on-demand stops in the historic heart. For those who prefer cycling, electric bike rentals are available. Alternatively, the compact nature of Albi's historic centre makes it perfect for exploring on foot, allowing visitors to soak in the charming atmosphere of its cobbled streets and medieval architecture.