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Introduction
The Isles of Scilly are an archipelago of about 140 tiny islands south-west of Cornwall, about 45 km (28 miles) off Land's End. These Atlantic islands enjoy a remarkably mild oceanic climate influenced by the Gulf Stream, supporting subtropical gardens and diverse wildlife including important seabird colonies and grey seals. The archipelago has been designatedArea of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1975.
Only five islands on inhabited with a total population of 2,153 in 2001. The five islands are St Mary's (1,666), Tresco (180), St Martin's (142), St Agnes and Bryher (population 165 between them). They have their own government in the form of a unitary authority.
Scilly has been inhabited since stone-age times. The 19th century saw its golden age when the islands were used for shipbuilding. The economy now relies on farming, fishing and tourism. Scillonian white sand beaches enjoy some of the warmest waters in Britain.
Interesting Facts about the Isles of Scilly
- The Isles of Scilly comprise five inhabited islands plus approximately 140 rocky islets lying 45 kilometres off Land's End in Cornwall.
- These granite islands experience the warmest climate in the British Isles, with average annual temperatures of 12.0°C, allowing frost and snow to be extremely rare.
- The islands' main export industry centres on cut flowers, particularly daffodils, which can be grown well ahead of those on the British mainland due to the mild climate.
- Over 530 shipwrecks lie off the coast of the Isles of Scilly, making the waters historically treacherous for passing vessels.
- St Mary's is the only island with proper roads, whilst the other inhabited islands have no facilities for hiring or parking cars.
- Hugh Town on St Mary's, with just over 1,000 residents, is the largest settlement and serves as the administrative centre.
- The islands boast an extraordinary density of historical sites with 239 ancient monuments scattered across the archipelago.
- Gig racing, a traditional rowing sport between the main islands, is thought to have originated from races to retrieve treasure from shipwrecks.
- The Isles of Scilly are one of the few places in the UK where visitors can observe puffins in their natural habitat.
- The islands host what is claimed to be the world's smallest football league.
- The Netherlands formally declared war against the Isles of Scilly in 1651 during the English Civil Wars, with peace not officially signed until 1986.
- Sea thrift (Armeria maritima) was designated as the official "county flower" of the islands by the plant conservation charity Plantlife.
- Bishop Rock Lighthouse, built in 1858 at the western end of the islands, stands as a notable example of 19th-century civil engineering.
- The islands are believed to be the remnants of a much larger landmass called Ennor, which was flooded around 400-500 CE when sea levels rose.
- Ancient field walls can still be seen beneath the water at low tide, particularly off the island of Samson, providing evidence of the islands' former larger size.
- Legend suggests the Isles of Scilly are all that remains of the lost kingdom of Lyonesse, mythically connected to King Arthur.
- The islands' unique position allows subtropical plants to flourish, creating a stark contrast with the typical British flora.
History
The Isles of Scilly boast one of Britain's most extraordinary prehistoric legacies, with human habitation stretching back some 8,000 years to around 6000 BCE when Mesolithic hunter-gatherers first visited seasonally. Archaeological evidence suggests the archipelago was originally one large island called 'Ennor' (meaning 'Great Island' in Old Cornish) before rising sea levels flooded the land around 400 CE, creating today's distinctive scatter of islands. By 2000 BCE, the Bronze Age had brought permanent settlement and a remarkable explosion of monuments—the islands now contain 238 scheduled ancient monuments, giving Scilly the greatest concentration of historical sites anywhere in the British Isles. The islands may correspond to the legendary Cassiterides or 'Tin Isles' mentioned by ancient Greek and Phoenician sources, and during the Late Roman Empire served as a place of exile, including for at least one Hispanian named Tiberianus around 385 CE.
The medieval period saw the islands pass through various hands before Henry I granted them to Tavistock Abbey in the 12th century, with the monks establishing a priory on Tresco. In the 16th century, the islands became Crown property and were leased in 1571 to Francis Godolphin, who constructed the iconic eight-pointed Star Castle above Hugh Town in 1593 as part of Tudor fortifications against potential Spanish invasion. During the English Civil War, Scilly became one of the last Royalist strongholds, with Prince Charles (later Charles II) seeking refuge at Star Castle for six weeks. The islands' strategic position led to an extraordinary footnote in history—the 335-year war with the Netherlands, which began in 1651 when Dutch Admiral Maarten Tromp declared war after Royalist privateers raided Dutch shipping, but peace wasn't formally declared until 1986 when a historian discovered the oversight.
The modern era brought both triumph and tragedy to Scilly's shores. In October 1707, the islands witnessed one of Britain's worst maritime disasters when Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell's fleet was wrecked on the rocks, claiming at least 1,450 lives. The 19th century marked a turning point when Augustus Smith acquired the lease in 1834 for £20,000, transforming the islands' fortunes by developing the famous Abbey Garden on Tresco and establishing organised market gardening. By the 1870s, improved transport links via Penzance had facilitated the development of commercial flower farming, and by the turn of the 20th century, over 40 tonnes of flowers were being shipped to London markets several times weekly. The islands' economy evolved from subsistence farming and salvage work to become a thriving centre for horticulture and tourism, whilst maintaining traditional industries like fishing and the famous pilot gig rowing that remains central to Scillonian culture today.
Main Attractions
Natural Landscapes and Beaches
St Mary's Beaches
Porthcressa Beach
Porthcressa Beach is the most accessible beach on St Mary's, located near Hugh Town with a sandy promenade and safe cove ideal for mooring, windsurfing, swimming, and paddling. The beach features rocky outcrops suitable for snorkelling and is popular with families due to its proximity to amenities.
Town Beach
Town Beach sits near the quay and serves as an excellent spot for beachcombing. This location offers opportunities to observe boats entering and leaving the harbour whilst searching for shells and marine debris along the shoreline.
Pelistry Bay
Pelistry Bay remains almost always deserted, providing a secluded experience with views of the Eastern Isles in the distance. The bay offers excellent rock pooling opportunities and access to Toll's Island at low tide. A café is located within a five-minute walk for refreshments.
Old Town Bay
Old Town Bay provides a quiet retreat away from the main settlements, situated about one mile north of Hugh Town in what locals refer to as 'up country'. The area offers a different landscape environment with opportunities for peaceful walks and swimming.
Bar Point
Bar Point represents a hidden gem on St Mary's, accessible via the coastal path past an ancient village. The beach curves in a V-shape offering dual vistas - one across to St Martin's and another towards the Atlantic Ocean. The fine sand and sheltered dunes create an ever-changing landscape due to the point's exposure, though the sea temperature remains notably cold.
Porthlow
Porthlow stands out as the best beach on St Mary's for rock pooling, where visitors can explore tidal pools teeming with marine life during low tide.
Tresco Beaches
Pentle Bay
Pentle Bay stretches for three-quarters of a mile and shelves gently into dunes protecting the sub-tropical landscape and Tresco Great Pool. This location serves as heaven for shell collectors, particularly the rare Cowrie shells, and provides safe swimming conditions with views interrupted only by the Eastern Isles. The beach features powdery white sand and crystal-clear water, making it ideal for families as there's minimal incline into the water.
Appletree Bay
Appletree Bay ranks among the prettiest beaches on Scilly, where the sea sparkles like a blue mosaic across the Tresco flats between Bryher and Samson. The clean sand sifts through fingers like sugar, and during southerly winds, the location becomes a windsurfer's paradise.
Rushy Porth
Rushy Porth sits framed by the 16th-century Blockhouse and Lizard Point, with shoreline that shelves into dunes supporting marram grass. Panoramic views encompass St Helen's and Tean islands.
St Martin's Beaches
Great Bay
Great Bay frequently ranks among the best beaches in the UK and consists of one long beach that appears as two due to a rocky outcrop separating expanses of white sand at low tide. The location serves as a family haven due to calm waters and slightly warmer sea temperatures compared to other beaches. Visitors can wade out for miles in the shallows during low tide.
Lawrence's Bay and Par Bay
Lawrence's Bay and Par Bay offer extensive sandy stretches suitable for families and walking, providing ample space for recreation and exploration along the northern coast of St Martin's.
Bryher Beaches
Rushy Bay
Rushy Bay features quintessential Bryher characteristics with fine white sand and gorgeous views over the uninhabited island of Samson. The beach showcases notably white sand adorned with beautiful kelp formations.
Great Porth
Great Porth nestles just south of Hell Bay Hotel as an arc-shaped beach that remains sheltered and calm. The location proves perfect for wild swimming or family paddling due to its protected position.
Green Bay
Green Bay sits south of the quay and provides another beautiful spot ideal for launching kayaks or rowing boats from ripple-free waters.
St Agnes Beaches
The Bar
The Bar creates a sandbar joining St Agnes to Gugh islet at low tide, revealing beautiful stretches with crystal-clear water and beaches on both sides. Common dolphins are often sighted to the west, and the location offers ideal conditions for swimming and sunbathing during the few hours when the sandbar is exposed.
Beady Pool
Beady Pool sits within Wingletang Bay and derives its name from ceramic beads continuing to be found on the beach from a 17th-century Venetian shipwreck. This unique historical connection adds archaeological interest to the beach experience.
Periglis Cove
Periglis Cove provides another standout beach location on St Agnes, contributing to the island's rugged coastal appeal.
Samson Beaches
Samson Flats
Samson Flats on the uninhabited island of Samson offers a unique adventure requiring boat transport from neighbouring islands. Visitors must literally "walk the plank" onto the beach from tripper boats. The island remains wild and beautiful with two prominent hills and endless miles of flats during low tide, making it renowned for rock-pooling with abundant marine life in the shallows.
Historical Sites and Monuments
The Isles of Scilly boast 239 scheduled monuments across just 16 square kilometres, creating one of the densest concentrations of archaeological sites in Britain. Over 60% of the islands are classified as archaeologically important, with some areas like Samson having the entire island designated as a scheduled area.
Military Fortifications
Cromwell's Castle (Tresco)
Cromwell's Castle stands as a mid-17th-century coastal artillery fort overlooking New Grimsby Sound, serving as a testament to Tresco's tumultuous history during the English Civil War. The castle was constructed to defend against naval attacks during the Commonwealth period.
King Charles's Castle (Tresco)
King Charles's Castle represents a ruined 16th-century artillery fort positioned to provide elevated views across the islands. Originally built during Elizabeth I's reign as a defensive structure, it was later renamed after the Civil War period.
Star Castle and Garrison Walls (St Mary's)
Star Castle and Garrison Walls form a 16th-century star-shaped fortress with defensive walls surrounding Hugh Town. The Star Castle now operates as a family-run hotel featuring two award-winning restaurants, whilst maintaining its historical significance as one of the key defensive structures built during Elizabeth I's reign.
The Old Blockhouse
The Old Blockhouse served as another defensive structure built during the Elizabethan era, contributing to the islands' strategic military importance.
Ancient Archaeological Sites
Bant's Carn Burial Chamber and Halangy Down Ancient Village (St Mary's)
Bant's Carn Burial Chamber and Halangy Down Ancient Village represent Bronze Age burial sites and Iron Age settlement remains, showcasing the islands' extensive prehistoric occupation dating back thousands of years.
Long Rock Standing Stone (St Mary's)
Long Rock Standing Stone stands as a prehistoric monument representing the islands' ancient ritual landscape.
Porth Hellick Burial Chamber (St Mary's)
Porth Hellick Burial Chamber provides another example of the Bronze Age burial monuments for which Scilly is particularly renowned.
The archaeological sequence spans from the Bronze Age through Iron Age, Roman, early Medieval, Tudor, Civil War, and up to 20th-century defence works. Coastal erosion constantly reveals additional sites, highlighting the urgent need for ongoing archaeological recording and monitoring.
Maritime Heritage
Under the sea around Scilly lie the remains of at least 700 wrecks, many of national and international importance. This maritime archaeological resource remains largely unrecorded but provides evidence of the islands' historical significance as both a haven and hazard for shipping throughout the centuries.
The islands' location made them one of the last Royalist strongholds during the English Civil War, where forces held out against the Parliamentarians until June 1651. During this period, Scilly even entered into one of the longest wars in history against the Netherlands.
Viewpoints and Coastal Walks
Peninnis Head (St Mary's)
Peninnis Head offers a granite headland with distinctive geological features and expansive coastal views across the archipelago. The area showcases typical Scillonian granite formations sculpted by millennia of weather and wave action.
Watch Hill (Bryher)
Watch Hill provides panoramic views across the entire archipelago, allowing visitors to observe the relationship between all inhabited and uninhabited islands from a single vantage point.
Samson Hill (Bryher)
Samson Hill offers elevated perspectives over the uninhabited island of Samson, where visitors can observe the remnants of the former community that once lived there before being forced to leave due to poverty.
Sunset Viewpoints (St Agnes)
Sunset Viewpoints serve as renowned locations for viewing sunsets towards the Western Rocks and Bishop Rock Lighthouse, creating spectacular evening photography opportunities.
Wildlife and Nature Experiences
Marine Wildlife
The Atlantic grey seals around the Isles of Scilly represent one of Europe's most important breeding populations. These playful marine mammals can be spotted basking on rocky shores or swimming in the surrounding clear waters, with seal pups visible during breeding season.
Seal Swimming (St Martin's)
Seal Swimming offers organised swimming experiences with Atlantic grey seals through Scilly Seal Snorkelling. This 2.5-hour experience includes boat transport to the seal colony and supervised swimming with these friendly creatures, requiring advance booking due to popularity.
Dolphin and Whale Watching
Dolphin and Whale Watching takes advantage of waters teeming with marine life, including common and bottlenose dolphins, minke whales, and occasional humpback whales. Recent years have seen the return of giant Atlantic Bluefin tuna to local waters, creating spectacular feeding displays often accompanied by gannets, seabirds, and dolphins.
Birdwatching
The islands serve as a designated Special Protection Area with bird migration peaks in autumn. Scilly functions as a resting point for numerous migratory species, making autumn migration season a birdwatcher's dream with sightings of rare and exotic birds.
The islands support a significant percentage of the world's Manx shearwater population, whilst the diversity of habitats from cliffs to wetlands provides year-round opportunities for spotting various species.
Puffin Watching
Puffin Watching occurs seasonally through boat trips, typically during spring and early summer when these charismatic seabirds visit the islands for breeding purposes.
Unique Island Species
The Scilly Shrew
The Scilly Shrew represents a species once thought endemic to the islands, though now known to exist on the Channel Islands as well under the name Lesser white-toothed shrew. Locals occasionally spot them in farm outbuildings and sheds.
The Scilly Bee
The Scilly Bee has evolved specifically on the islands and exists nowhere else, particularly active during summer months.
Flora and Botanical Interest
The mild climate supports rich arrays of wildflowers creating riots of colour across the landscape. Scillonian flowers, particularly scented Narcissi, have been famous in London markets like Covent Garden for years, with working flower farms sending blooms throughout the UK and beyond.
The islands represent one of the few places in the UK where elm trees thrive, creating spectacular elm groves. The diverse flora attracts butterflies, bees, and other insects, contributing to the islands' reputation as a haven for nature enthusiasts.
Outdoor Activities
Walking and Hiking
Coast paths and inland trails exist on all inhabited islands, offering varied terrain and lengths suitable for different abilities. Daily guided walking tours depart from St Mary's with excursions to all islands, including uninhabited ones, covering topics from wildlife and maritime history to archaeology.
The rugged coastline provides extensive hiking opportunities, allowing visitors to experience the unique feeling of complete isolation and peace that characterises the Scillonian landscape.
Water Sports
Kayaking and Paddleboarding
Kayaking and Paddleboarding are available at several beaches, particularly Porthmellon (St Mary's), St Martin's locations, and Green Bay (Bryher). The sheltered bays and crystal-clear waters provide ideal conditions for paddling activities.
Wild Swimming
Wild Swimming has gained popularity due to the relatively mild climate, allowing visitors to explore hidden coves and experience immersion in pristine natural waters. Great Porth on Bryher offers particularly sheltered conditions for wild swimming.
Snorkelling and Diving
Snorkelling and Diving take advantage of clear waters with vibrant seagrass beds and accessible shipwrecks. St Martin's Dive Centre offers equipment rental and guided dives for all levels, whilst snorkellers can explore marine life including cuttlefish and colourful anemones in shallow waters.
Adventure Activities
Rock Climbing and Bouldering
Rock Climbing and Bouldering utilise the granite cliffs and rock formations with ocean views as backdrop. Various routes challenge climbers whilst providing immersion in the islands' rugged beauty.
Coasteering
Coasteering combines climbing, jumping, and swimming along the rugged coastline, offered professionally by Kernow Coasteering. This activity allows exploration of the islands from a thrilling new perspective, accessing areas unreachable by conventional walking.
Land-Based Activities
Horseback Riding
Horseback Riding through St Mary's Riding Centre offers equestrian experiences for all abilities, including beach rides, bridleway hacks, and even paddle experiences in the saddle.
Cycling
Cycling provides opportunities to explore the islands' winding paths with stunning views of crystal-clear waters, rugged cliffs, and tranquil beaches. Bike hire allows visitors to cover more ground whilst maintaining an intimate connection with the landscape.
Golf
Golf is available for enthusiasts seeking to play in one of the UK's most scenic settings.
Notable Landmarks
St Agnes Lighthouse
St Agnes Lighthouse represents one of the earliest surviving lighthouses in Britain, constructed in the 17th century and serving as a crucial navigation aid for vessels approaching the dangerous Western Rocks.
The Day Mark (St Martin's)
The Day Mark functions as a day-navigation aid built in the 17th century, remaining visible across the islands and serving mariners during daylight hours when lighthouse beams are not visible.
Agricultural and Craft Attractions
St Martin's Vineyard
St Martin's Vineyard offers tours and tastings at the northernmost commercial vineyard in the UK, showcasing wine production in the unique Scillonian climate and terroir.
Local Craft Studios
Local Craft Studios provide opportunities to observe and purchase work from island artisans, including Sophie Hooper Jewellery on St Martin's and Richard Pearce's Studio on Bryher. These workshops demonstrate traditional and contemporary crafts inspired by the island environment.
Flower Farms
Flower Farms continue the traditional industry that has sustained Scillonian families for generations, with working farms still sending scented Narcissi and other flowers to markets throughout the UK.
Dark Sky Experiences
The islands offer some of the best dark skies in the country, providing exceptional opportunities for stargazing. Evening bat walks can precede stargazing sessions, combining wildlife observation with astronomical appreciation in the pollution-free night environment.
The Isles of Scilly provide a comprehensive destination combining natural beauty, historical significance, wildlife encounters, and outdoor adventure opportunities. Each inhabited island contributes unique characteristics whilst maintaining the archipelago's overall appeal as one of the UK's most distinctive and unspoiled destinations.