Exeter

Contents
1. Introduction 2. Interesting Facts 3. History 4. Main Sights 5. Top Museums 6. Local Cuisine 7. Getting There

Introduction

Exeter (pop. 114,000) the historic county town of Devon, lies on the River Exe about 110 km southwest of Bristol. Established as a Roman fortified settlement, the city retains sections of its Roman wall and a network of medieval underground passages. Its compact centre is anchored by Exeter Cathedral, a 12th- to 14th-century Gothic landmark known for the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England. The Royal Albert Memorial Museum, the quayside warehouses now converted into cafés and craft shops, and the modern Princesshay shopping quarter illustrate the mix of heritage and redevelopment. Before being heavily damaged by bombing during WWII, it was considered second to Bath as an architectural site in southern England. If Exeter's heritage has suffered, it remains an attractive city, with a few notable buildings, the more prominent of which is the gothic cathedral.

Interesting Facts about Exeter

• Exeter is one of the oldest cities in the UK, with its history dating back to the Roman era when it was established as a fortified settlement named Isca Dumnoniorum.
• The city boasts Parliament Street, which is one of the narrowest streets in the world.
• Exeter's Guildhall, built in 1470, is believed to be the oldest civic building in England still in use.
• The city was England's epicentre for witchcraft trials, hosting both the country's first and last witch hangings, with the final executions taking place in 1685.
• Charles Dickens spent considerable time in Exeter, as his parents lived in Mile End Cottage in Alphington for four years from 1839, and he wrote the opening chapters of Nicholas Nickleby there.
• Exeter Cathedral possesses the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England.
• The city is home to the third oldest synagogue in Britain, which was completed in 1763.
• Northernhay Gardens, located just outside the castle, are the oldest public open space in England, first created in 1612.
• Exeter features unique underground passages that are the only ones of their type in Britain, with guided tours having been available since the 1930s.
• The city contains a remarkable building known as "The House That Moved," a 14th-century Tudor structure that was physically relocated in 1961 to make way for a new road, weighing more than twenty-one tonnes.
• The Custom House in the Quay area holds the distinction of being the oldest brick building surviving in the city.
• Exeter Cathedral's proper name is actually the Cathedral Church of Saint Peter in Exeter, though it's commonly known simply as Exeter Cathedral.
• The area of Heavitree has a rather gruesome origin, deriving from the Old English "heafod-treow" meaning "head tree," referring to a place where people were executed.

History

Exeter was founded by the Romans in 50 CE as Isca Dumnoniorum as the administrative capital for present-day Devon and Cornwall. The Romans built baths and a defensive wall, and parts of the latter still survive to this day.

The town was ravaged by the Danes in 876, taken by William the Conqueror after a 18-day siege in 1068, then developed as a wool trading port. A weir was built on the Exe River, blocking sea traffic to Exeter, but in 1563, Britain's first ship canal was constructed to bypass the weir and Exeter survived as a trading port.

In 1942, the Luftwaffe (German Airforce) bombed 40 acres of the city, and many historical buildings were lost or badly damaged.

Main Attractions

Exeter Cathedral

The main attraction is undoubtedly Exeter Cathedral. It was founded under Saxon rule in 1050 as a cathedral dedicated to St Peter, when the diocese of Devon and Cornwall moved from nearby Crediton to Exeter.

William Warelwast, a nephew of William the Conqueror commissioned a new Norman-style cathedral, which was completed in 1133. The two transepts still date from this time.

Walter Bronescombe was appointed bishop in 1258, and decided to rebuild the cathedral in the Decorated Gothic style, like that of the cathedral of Salisbury, and was not completed until 1400.

Notable features of the interior include the great clock, the pulpitum screen (built in 1325), the minstrels gallery, and the ceiling bosses, one of which depicts the murder of Thomas Becket.

Exeter's Underground Passages

Beneath the bustling streets of Exeter lies a unique network of vaulted tunnels dating from the 14th century, originally constructed to bring fresh water into the medieval city. These Underground Passages represent the only publicly accessible medieval water system of their kind in the United Kingdom. Access is strictly through guided tours, which provide fascinating insights into the engineering methods employed by medieval craftsmen and the daily life of Exeter's historical inhabitants. The passages offer a cool respite from summer heat and a genuinely unique underground experience.

Historic Quayside

Exeter's Historic Quayside stretches along the River Exe, south-west of the city centre, serving as both a testament to the city's maritime heritage and a modern recreational hub. The area showcases well-preserved historic warehouses alongside the 17th-century Custom House, which now functions as a visitor centre. The quayside serves as the starting point for numerous outdoor activities including cycling, walking, canoeing, and paddleboarding. Visitors can browse independent shops, enjoy meals at waterside cafes and restaurants, or take scenic boat trips along the historic canal system.

Northernhay Gardens

Northernhay Gardens holds the distinction of being England's oldest public open space, established in 1612. These historic gardens feature mature trees, well-maintained lawns, and various monuments and statues that chronicle different periods of Exeter's history. The site preserves an important section of the Roman city wall, providing visitors with a tangible connection to Exeter's ancient past. The gardens connect to nearby Rougemont Gardens, which also contains remnants of the city's medieval fortifications.

Exeter Red Coat Guided Tours

The Exeter Red Coat Guided Tours offer free walking tours led by knowledgeable local volunteers who share their passion for the city's rich history. These tours begin outside the West Front of the cathedral and operate daily except on major holidays. Each tour covers different aspects of Exeter's past, including visits to significant landmarks, discussions of historic architecture, and engaging stories from local history. The tours provide an excellent introduction to the city for first-time visitors and deeper insights for those already familiar with Exeter.

Powderham Castle

Located approximately seven miles south of Exeter, Powderham Castle presents a magnificent example of a fortified manor house dating from the 14th century. The castle sits within extensive deer parkland along the River Exe, offering visitors glimpses of roaming deer and scenic riverside walks. Public access includes guided tours of the opulent staterooms, exploration of the formal gardens, and participation in special events such as seasonal markets and festivals. The castle's grounds provide ample space for picnicking and outdoor activities.

Valley Parks and Green Spaces

Exeter benefits from an extensive network of Valley Parks, including Riverside Valley Park and Mincinglake Valley Park, which encircle the city with green corridors. These parks offer diverse walking routes, dedicated cycling trails, carefully maintained wildlife habitats, and numerous picnic areas suitable for families. The Exe Estuary Trail represents a particularly popular route that extends beyond the city limits, following the river through varied landscapes ideal for both walking and cycling enthusiasts.

Topsham

The historic port town of Topsham sits at Exeter's southern edge, accessible via local train services, regular bus connections, or dedicated walking and cycling routes. This charming settlement showcases well-preserved historic architecture, hosts independent shops and galleries, and offers spectacular estuary views from its waterside pubs. The Goat Walk provides a scenic pedestrian pathway alongside the estuary, leading to important birdwatching sites including the Bowling Green Marsh nature reserve.

Haldon Forest Park

Just outside Exeter's boundaries, Haldon Forest Park caters to outdoor enthusiasts with its network of walking, running, and cycling trails suitable for various fitness levels. The park maintains onsite facilities including a cafe and cycle hire service, ensuring visitors can enjoy refreshments and equipment without prior arrangements. The forest offers clearly marked family-friendly routes alongside more challenging mountain biking options for experienced cyclists.

Top Museums

Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery (RAMM)

Located in an impressive Victorian Gothic building, RAMM is Exeter's flagship museum. It is celebrated for its eclectic collections encompassing local history, archaeology, world cultures, fine art, natural history, and decorative arts. Frequent temporary exhibitions and engaging permanent galleries provide insights into Exeter’s past, from prehistoric artefacts to Roman remains and Victorian costumes. RAMM’s vibrant displays make it a cultural hub, offering visitors a journey from ancient Devon to the global stage.

St Nicholas Priory

St Nicholas Priory is a Benedictine monastry founded in 1087, unusually located in the heart of the city. William Hurst, who sat in Parliament for Exeter and was Mayor five times, purchased the monastry in 1549. It is Exeter’s oldest building and became a property of the City Council in 1913. Lovingly restored, the museum today is furnished as it would have been in the reign of Elizabeth I, offering a vivid portrayal of Tudor domestic life and architectural heritage.

The Bill Douglas Cinema Museum

Situated on the University of Exeter’s campus, this museum is dedicated to the history of the moving image. Its internationally renowned collection explores the development of cinema and visual media, featuring everything from early magic lanterns and Victorian optical toys to cinema memorabilia and blockbuster film artefacts. The museum not only preserves the legacy of filmmaker Bill Douglas but also invites visitors to reflect on how moving images shape our lives and imaginations.

Topsham Museum

Nestling on the Exe Estuary just outside Exeter city centre, Topsham Museum offers a glimpse into the region’s maritime and social history. Displays include period rooms, ship models, memorabilia from river trading, historic costumes, and a unique collection relating to the film actress Vivien Leigh. Housed in a charming 17th-century building, the museum is equally a showcase for local personalities, natural sciences, and decorative arts.

Exeter’s Underground Passages

Delve beneath the city with a visit to Exeter's unique medieval Underground Passages. These historic tunnels, constructed in the 14th and 15th centuries, were designed to bring fresh water into the city. Today, guided tours provide an atmospheric and educational experience, exploring Exeter’s history from an unusual subterranean perspective. The associated visitor centre presents archaeological finds and explains the architectural feats of these passages.

Tuckers Hall

Located on Fore Street, Tuckers Hall is the historic guildhall of Exeter's woollen cloth trade. It offers a fascinating window into Exeter’s prosperous industrial past through exhibits on medieval guilds, tapestry, and the city’s influential Weavers, Fullers and Shearmen.

The Custom House Visitor Centre

Set in a grand 17th-century building on Exeter’s Quayside, the Custom House brings the story of Exeter’s maritime heritage to life. Through informative displays, illustrations, and artefacts, visitors gain insight into the city’s key role in the woollen cloth industry and enjoy an engaging audio-visual presentation charting 2,000 years of Exeter’s history.

Exeter Phoenix

For those drawn to contemporary culture, Exeter Phoenix is the city’s vibrant arts and media centre. With exhibitions spanning music, theatre, dance, film, and visual art, it is not strictly a museum but regularly hosts thought-provoking installations and visual arts events that contribute to Exeter's cultural landscape.

Local Cuisine

Exeter is renowned for its Devonshire cream tea, featuring freshly baked scones served with clotted cream and jam - and locals insist the cream goes on first, unlike their Cornish neighbours. Being close to the coast, Exeter's restaurants pride themselves on serving locally caught fresh seafood including Dover sole, John Dory, hake, mussels, and mackerel. Traditional Devon specialities such as Devonshire splits (rich, sweet buns perfect for cream teas) and hearty pasties - with the earliest known recipe dating back to Plymouth in 1510 - remain popular throughout the city. The region's excellent pasture also provides Red Ruby Devon beef and local lamb, often featured in traditional dishes like Dartmouth pie and Devonshire squab pie. Food enthusiasts can explore everything from historic pubs that once welcomed Charles Dickens to modern establishments showcasing seasonal Devon produce, with the Thursday farmers' market offering artisanal pies, pasties, and locally made Devon Blue cheese.

Getting There & Around

By train, the city is served by two main railway stations, with Exeter St Davids being the primary terminus for services from London Paddington (taking approximately 2 hours) and London Waterloo (around 4 hours), operated by Great Western Railway and South Western Railway respectively.

By coach, National Express provides regular services from London Victoria Coach Station and other major cities, with journeys taking around 4 to 5 hours and arriving at Exeter Coach Station on Bampfylde Street in the city centre.

By car, Exeter enjoys excellent road connections via the M5 motorway, which terminates nearby at junctions 30 and 31, providing direct access from the Midlands and North, whilst the Devon Expressway begins at Exeter, opening up onward travel throughout the Southwest.