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Eupedia England Guide


Bell tower, Gloucester Cathedral (© rachel dewis | iStockphoto.com)

Introduction

Set only 30 km from the Welsh border, on the River Severn, Gloucester (pronounced 'Gloster'; pop. 110,000) is the county town and largest urban area of rural Gloucestershire. If there is one reason to visit Gloucester, it is for its magnificent Gothic cathedral, famous for its fan-vaulted cloisters and connections to the Harry Potter films. The city's historic docks, once a bustling inland port, have been transformed into a cultural quarter featuring museums, restaurants, and shopping outlets housed in converted Victorian warehouses. Gloucester can also serve as a convenient base for exploring the Forest of Dean to the west, the Cotswolds to the east, or the Malvern Hills to the north-west.


Interesting Facts about Gloucester

  • Gloucester Cathedral served as the filming location for corridor scenes in the Harry Potter films, including The Philosopher's Stone, The Chamber of Secrets, and The Half-Blood Prince.
  • The city is home to Europe's largest ice cream factory, Wall's, which produced more than 800 million individual ice cream products in 2021.
  • The world's first double Gloucester cheese went on sale at Gloucester's Eastgate Indoor Market, which has been operating since 1498.
  • Beatrix Potter's famous story The Tailor of Gloucester was inspired by John Pritchard, a real-life Gloucester tailor who worked at a shop in College Court near the cathedral.
  • King Henry III was crowned in Gloucester Cathedral's Chapter House in 1216 at the tender age of just ten years old.
  • The city began as the Roman colonia of Glevum, founded by Emperor Nerva between 96-98 CE, and was one of only four cities in Britain to achieve this highest Roman status.
  • Gloucester Cathedral boasts the largest stained glass window in the UK, known as the Crecy window.
  • Despite being 53 kilometres inland, Gloucester holds the distinction of being Britain's most inland port, connected to the sea via the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal.
  • The jet engine was invented in Gloucester by Frank Whittle.
  • Bishop John Hooper was martyred by burning at the stake in St Mary's Square in 1555 during the reign of Queen Mary I.
  • The city successfully withstood a 26-day siege by Royalist forces in 1643 during the English Civil War, with the siege being lifted on 5 September, now celebrated annually as Gloucester Day.
  • Gloucester was home to England's first Sunday school, founded by Robert Raikes in 1780.
  • The prestigious Three Choirs Festival, one of the oldest music festivals in the British Isles, takes place in Gloucester every third year alongside Hereford and Worcester.
  • St Mary de Lode Church was built on the site of an ancient Roman temple that became the first Christian church in Britain.
  • The cathedral contains medieval stained glass from around 1350 that depicts some of the earliest known images of golf.
  • Oliver Cromwell famously declared that Gloucester had "more churches than godliness" due to its abundance of religious buildings.

History

Gloucester started its existence as the Roman colonia of Glevum, founded in the reign of Nerva (CE 96-98). The town remained important in Saxon times, especially after the foundation in 681 of St Peter's Abbey by King Æthelred of Mercia. It acted as a royal residence and a mint for the last pre-Norman kings of England.

William the Conqueror met often with his court at Gloucester. His great-grand son Henry II granted the city a charter of liberties equal to that of London and Winchester in 1155. King John extended these privileges freedom from toll throughout the kingdom in 1200.

Gloucester stayed in the spotlight in the following centuries as well. Henry III was crowned in St Peter's Abbey in 1216. Edward II, who was allegedly homosexual, was secretly murdered (or was it a natural death ?) at nearby Berkeley Castle, and subsequently enshrined in the cathedral. In 1483, Richard III made Gloucester a county of its own right.

The Siege of Gloucester in 1643 was one of the most important battle of the English Civil War, as the king's forces resisted for 26 days the assaults of the parliamentarians.

Although the city had been a major port in medieval times, the difficulty of navigating the River Severn up to Gloucester shifted most of the traffic to Bristol. However, a canal wad dug between Gloucester and Sharpness in 1827, rekindled trade. In Victorian times, Gloucester grew to become Britain's largest inland port, servicing some 600 ships annually, although its heyday waned soon afterwards.

The coal, timber and iron from the nearby Forest of Dean assured Gloucester's quick industrialization in the 19th century. In the 20th century, Gloucester prospered on railway, motorcycles and aircrafts manufacturing.


Main Attractions

Gloucester Cathedral

Stained glass windows in the cloister, Gloucester Cathedral (© Kenneth Bland | Dreamstime.com)

The city's focal point is its cathedral, made famous around the world by its appearance as the corridors of Hogwart's School in the Harry Potter film series.

Founded in 681 as the Abbey of St Peter, the first proper church was constructed by Abbot Serlo in 1100. This first lacklustre edifice was replaced by the superb current cathedral after Edward II's murder in 1327.

Gloucester did not become a diocese until 1541 (before that it belonged to the diocese of Worcester), when Henry VIII dissolved the abbey and elevated it to the status of cathedral.

The cathedral adroitly combines every style of Gothic architecture with some elements of early English style. The heavy and sturdy Norman nave is balanced by the light and delicate Perpendicular-style porch and north transept and the Decorated Gothic south transept. The cathedral's eye-catching 69m-high tower was built in 1450 and is topped by four graceful pinnacles.

The choir's mid-14th century east window, commemorating the Battle of Crecy, is the largest medieval window in the country. The crypt is one of the four apsidal cathedral crypts in England (along with Worcester, Winchester and Canterbury).Also worth noting is the great cloister the first, and one of the best example of fan-vaulting in England.

The elaborate alabaster and marble tomb of Edward II, as well as that of Robert Curthose (eldest son of William the Conqueror), are in the southern ambulatory. There are memorials to two distinguished (although not very well-known) local residents : Edward Jenner (1749-1823), who developed the vaccine against smallpox, and John Stafford Smith (1750-1836) who composed "To Anacreon in Heaven" used for the tune of "The Star-Spangled Banner," the national anthem of the United States.

Gloucester Docks

The historic Gloucester Docks represent a remarkable transformation from Britain's most inland port to a vibrant leisure and retail destination. The Victorian warehouses that once stored goods from around the world now house restaurants, cafés, and shops, whilst retaining their distinctive 19th-century character. The docks maintain their connection to Britain's waterway heritage through the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal, which still operates as a working waterway. A functioning boatyard continues traditional boat maintenance and repair services, providing visitors with insight into the area's maritime past. Throughout the year, the docks host various events including the popular Tall Ships and Shanty Festival, which celebrates the area's nautical heritage. The nearby ruins of Llanthony Secunda Priory and the historic Mariners Church add further historical depth to the area.

Gloucester Quays

Adjacent to the historic docks, Gloucester Quays offers a modern retail experience within the context of Victorian industrial architecture. The outlet shopping centre houses more than 50 stores featuring both high street and designer brands, providing year-round shopping opportunities. The development includes an extensive selection of restaurants and cafés catering to various tastes, alongside a multi-screen cinema complex for entertainment. The site regularly hosts seasonal markets and community events that bring together locals and visitors throughout the year. The thoughtful integration of new retail spaces within the preserved Victorian warehouse district demonstrates how historic industrial sites can be successfully adapted for contemporary use whilst maintaining their architectural integrity.

Greyfriars

The ruins of Greyfriars represent some of the best-preserved remains of a medieval Dominican friary in England. Founded in the 13th century, the site retains substantial portions of the original nave and south aisle, providing visitors with a tangible connection to medieval religious life. The ruins are easily accessible from Greyfriars Walk in the city centre, making them a convenient stop for those exploring Gloucester's historic core. The surviving architectural elements demonstrate the skilled craftsmanship of medieval masons and offer insight into the layout and function of a typical Dominican establishment.

Robinswood Hill Country Park

Robinswood Hill Country Park encompasses 100 hectares of diverse countryside to the south-east of Gloucester city centre. The hill's summit reaches 198 metres above sea level, providing panoramic views across the Severn Vale towards the Forest of Dean, the Cotswolds, and the Malvern Hills. On particularly clear days, visitors can see as far as the Severn Bridges spanning the estuary. The park features a variety of habitats including meadows, woodlands, and orchards, all connected by well-marked walking trails suitable for different fitness levels. Designated as both a Local Nature Reserve and a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its geological significance, the park offers educational opportunities alongside recreational activities. The on-site headquarters and visitor centre of the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust provides additional information about local wildlife and conservation efforts.

Kingsholm Stadium

Kingsholm Stadium serves as the home ground for Gloucester Rugby, one of England's most successful rugby union clubs. The stadium regularly hosts club matches that attract supporters from across the region, contributing to Gloucester's reputation as a rugby stronghold. Beyond rugby, the venue accommodates various sporting events throughout the year, making it a focal point for the city's sporting calendar. The stadium's atmosphere during match days reflects the deep-rooted rugby culture that permeates Gloucester and the surrounding area.

Gloucester and Sharpness Canal

The Gloucester and Sharpness Canal represents a significant achievement in British industrial engineering, historically serving as a vital commercial waterway linking Gloucester to the Severn Estuary at Sharpness. Today, the canal provides excellent opportunities for waterside walks and boat trips, allowing visitors to experience the peaceful waterway environment that contrasts with the bustling city centre. The canal forms an integral part of Gloucester's industrial heritage and connects directly with the historic docks, creating a continuous narrative of the city's maritime and commercial past. The towpath offers a tranquil route for walking and cycling, whilst the waterway itself continues to accommodate recreational boating and canal boat holidays.

Other attractions

Gloucester has a few historic buildings worth seeing, such as St Mary de Lode (the town's oldest church), the ruins of St Oswald Priory, St Nicholas House, the Blackfriars (a Dominican priory) and the 15th-century St Michael's Tower near Eastgate Market. The House of the Tailor of Gloucester, off Westgate St, has an exhibition dedicated to Beatrix Potter's famous story of the same name.


Top Museums

Museum of Gloucester

  • Overview: This central museum features an internationally significant collection of more than 750,000 artefacts.
  • Exhibits: Explore Gloucester’s evolution from its Roman origins through the Dark Ages and medieval period. Highlights include a Roman kitchen playhouse, a medieval street scene, fine art collections with works by names such as Gainsborough and Grimshaw, and archaeological treasures like the famed Birdlip Mirror—a stunning piece from the Iron Age. The museum also houses the Gloucester Tables Set, recognised as the world’s oldest complete backgammon set, offering a fascinating glimpse into the city’s continuous story.

National Waterways Museum, Gloucester

  • Overview: Set in a striking Victorian warehouse within Gloucester’s historic docks, this museum brings the story of Britain’s inland waterways to life.
  • Exhibits: Delve into 200 years of maritime history, exploring interactive displays about canals, boats, and the vital role the waterways played in the city’s growth. The evocative surroundings of the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal and the River Severn offer a fitting backdrop to themed exhibits, vintage canal craft, engines, and displays illustrating life on the water.

The Folk of Gloucester

  • Overview: Housed in two of the city’s oldest surviving buildings, a 16th-century Tudor merchant’s house and a 17th-century townhouse.
  • Exhibits: The museum immerses visitors in Gloucester life from centuries past, with recreated shops, period rooms, and abundant artefacts. The authentically atmospheric settings bring daily life, local trades, and community stories from different eras to vivid life.

Soldiers of Gloucestershire Museum

  • Overview: Nestled amid the Gloucester Docks, this museum traces more than 300 years of military and social history.
  • Exhibits: Dedicated to the Gloucestershire Regiment and Royal Gloucestershire Hussars, visitors can view uniform collections, wartime memorabilia, and medals. Experience a First World War trench and learn about the human stories behind local soldiers’ service across global conflicts.

The House of the Tailor of Gloucester / Beatrix Potter Museum

  • Overview: Inspired by Beatrix Potter’s iconic tale, this charming small museum is located in the picturesque Cathedral Court.
  • Exhibits: The site brims with memorabilia relating to Potter’s story, including clothes, models, and illustrations. Original glass cases hold delightful displays, making it a nostalgic stop for families and fans of the beloved author and her mouse-sized heroes.

Jet Age Museum

  • Overview: Celebrate Gloucester’s pivotal role in aviation history at this museum located near the old Gloster Aircraft Factory.
  • Exhibits: See a model of Britain’s first jet to take flight, displays on aeronautical engineering, restored aircraft, and related artefacts. The museum showcases the local industry’s contribution to world aviation and offers hands-on opportunities for enthusiasts.

Nature in Art

  • Overview: Located just north of Gloucester in the historic Wallsworth Hall, this is the world’s first museum and gallery dedicated exclusively to art inspired by nature.
  • Exhibits: View a unique, wide-ranging collection of fine, decorative, and applied arts, across media and styles, all celebrating the natural world. The elegant Georgian setting enhances the ambiance and makes the visit special for both art lovers and families.

Local Cuisine

Gloucester's most famous export is undoubtedly Double Gloucester cheese, a mellow-flavoured variety that has been crafted in the Vale of Gloucester for over a thousand years and remains popular for its excellent melting qualities. Food enthusiasts should seek out Gloucestershire Squab Pie, a hearty two-crust pastry filled with lamb, onions, sliced apples, and raisins—despite its name, it traditionally uses mutton rather than pigeon. The region's proximity to the River Severn provides access to rare elvers (baby eels), which are highly prized in fine dining establishments. Another local treasure is the Gloucestershire Old Spot pig, Britain's first pedigree breed, renowned amongst top chefs for its exceptional succulence and flavour. Traditional comfort foods include Gloucester Pancakes, made from suet dough and served with golden syrup, and Gloucester Cheese and Ale, where the famous local cheese is dissolved in strong ale and served over toast. The historic Gloucester Docks area offers excellent waterside dining, whilst the city's Friday farmers' market at The Cross provides an authentic taste of local produce, from artisanal baked goods to regional specialities.


Getting There & Around

By train, Gloucester is easily accessible via regular services from London Paddington (approximately 2 hours), Birmingham New Street, and Cardiff Central, with the city's railway station conveniently located in the town centre.

By coach, National Express operates direct services from London Victoria Coach Station, Birmingham, and other major cities throughout England and Wales, with coaches arriving at Gloucester Bus Station near the city centre.

By car, Gloucester is excellently positioned just off the M5 motorway (Junction 12), making it readily accessible from the Midlands, the South West, and Wales, whilst the A40 provides a scenic route from London via Oxford, and the A38 connects the city to Bristol and the South West.



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