Ely

Introduction

Ely is a small cathedral city situated 14 miles northeast of Cambridge and known for its striking position on a natural “island” rising above the surrounding Fens. With a population of around 19,200, Ely is dominated by its Norman cathedral, often called the “Ship of the Fens,” which has been a centre of worship and pilgrimage for over 1,300 years. The city’s history is closely tied to its former isolation as an island, the abundance of eels in the local waterways, and its role as a stronghold during the Norman conquest. Visitors can explore medieval streets, the riverside, independent shops, and notable sites such as Oliver Cromwell’s House, the Bishop’s Palace, and the Stained Glass Museum. Ely serves as a compact hub for heritage, markets, and access to the surrounding fenland countryside.

History

The city was founded as an abbey in 673, and became the centre of the Isle of Ely, a traditional region that was granted county status between 1889 and 1965 - before being merged with Cambridgeshire. The city's name derives from the eels once abundant in the nearby River Great Ouse.

The abbey was destroyed by raiding Vikings in 870, and not reconstructed until 970, when a Benedictine monastery was established. Abbot Simeon ordered the erection of the present Romanesque cathedral under William I in 1083.

The diocese of of Ely was founded in 1109, although the cathedral was not completed until 1189.

Attractions

Cathedral

The 11th-century Ely Cathedral stands as the town's most significant attraction. Originally founded as a monastery by Queen Etheldreda of Northumbria in 673, the current Norman structure dates from 1083. The cathedral is renowned for its central Gothic octagon, which took nearly 20 years to construct and is considered a masterpiece of medieval engineering. The West Tower dominates the landscape and can be seen for miles across the surrounding fenland.

The distinctive feature of the Norman cathedral is its rare octagonal tower topped by a lantern tower, reconstructed in 1351 after the original central tower collapsed in 1322.

The whole building is 172m in length (the fourth longest in England), with a 75m-long nave. The cathedral was restored in the 18th and 19th century, then again between 1986 and 2000, with the funds from collected from the admission fee (incidentally, Ely was the first cathedral in England to charge visitors).

Oliver Cromwell's House

This half-timbered house served as the residence of Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of England from 1653-1658, who lived here with his family from 1636 to 1646. The property is the only surviving Cromwell residence apart from Hampton Court. The house now functions as both a museum and the Ely Tourist Information Centre.

Recent renovations have introduced interactive displays, audio guides, and augmented reality experiences that bring Cromwell's story to life. Visitors can explore period rooms including the kitchen, where displays show preparations for a dinner celebrating Cromwell's election as MP for Cambridge in 1640. The menu featured oysters, neat's-foot pie, asparagus, and eels.

Ely Museum

Located in a former jailhouse on the High Street, Ely Museum reopened in 2021 following a £2.2 million National Lottery Heritage Fund redevelopment. The museum tells the story of Ely's people and landscape through well-interpreted displays. Exhibits include arrowheads, flint picks, and antler hammers from hunters who pursued woolly mammoths and other prehistoric animals. The Anglo-Saxon period is represented through jewellery, swords, and metalwork.

Historic Town Centre

Ely's medieval High Street and Market Street form the town's commercial heart, lined with traditional shops and Georgian houses. The area hosts chartered markets on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and Bank Holiday Mondays, with a specialist Farmers Market also available.

Green Spaces and Nature Reserves

Jubilee Gardens provide a peaceful riverside setting along the River Great Ouse, offering views of passing boats and serving as an ideal spot for relaxation.

Wicken Fen Nature Reserve, located 9 miles south of Ely, preserves what the undrained fenlands once looked like. This National Trust site supports over 8,500 species, including Konik ponies, hen harriers, and numerous dragonfly species. The reserve features well-maintained paths, bird hides, a boardwalk through the wetland landscape, and a café. It holds designations as both a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a RAMSAR-listed wetland.

How to get there

Getting to Ely is remarkably straightforward, with the historic cathedral city being well-connected by various transport links. By train, Ely boasts direct connections to London King's Cross (taking just 1 hour 11 minutes with tickets from £23-40), as well as regular services to Cambridge, Norwich, and the Midlands. From Cambridge, the journey takes a mere 18 minutes, making it an ideal day trip destination.

By car, Ely sits conveniently just 12 miles from Cambridge and is easily accessible via the A10 or A14, with the added benefit of free city centre car parks upon arrival. By bus, regular services connect Ely with Cambridge, Newmarket, and surrounding villages, whilst coach travellers can catch National Express or FlixBus services from London Victoria Coach Station, with fares starting from as little as £5 if booked in advance. Once you arrive, Ely's compact size means the entire city centre can be explored on foot, with the train station just a pleasant 5-10 minute walk from the main attractions.