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Introduction
Halfway between Alnwick and Bamburgh, the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle stand dramatically a rocky promontory by the sea. The shattered and crumbling walls and towers of the once mighty fortress exude a romantic aura, particularly at dawn and dusk.
Interesting Facts about Dunstanburgh Castle
- Dunstanburgh is the largest medieval castle enclosure in Northumberland, its curtain wall once encircling nearly 10 acres of headland.
- Thomas, 2nd Earl of Lancaster, began building the fortress in 1313 as a remote refuge during his rebellion against his cousin King Edward II.
- Lancaster probably saw the site’s older Iron-Age earthworks and incorporated them into the castle’s defences, giving the new stronghold prehistoric roots.
- The twin-towered Great Gatehouse was so vast that later chroniclers called it “one of the most imposing structures in any English castle”.
- John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster and father of the future Henry IV, upgraded the defences in the 1380s after the Peasants’ Revolt, turning the gatehouse into a keep.
- During the Wars of the Roses the castle changed hands several times and was twice besieged, leaving it badly damaged by 1464.
- Its spectacular ruins, battered by North Sea winds, inspired Romantic artists such as J. M. W. Turner to paint dramatic seascapes of the site.
- In the Second World War the headland was refortified with pillboxes, trenches and a minefield as part of Britain’s coastal defences.
- Today the castle is managed by English Heritage, while the surrounding cliffs and grasslands form a Site of Special Scientific Interest famed for breeding seabirds and rare flora.
- Reached only on foot via a 1.3-mile coastal path from Craster, the approach gives visitors the same windswept vista that medieval besiegers once faced.
History
Occupied since prehistoric times, Dunstanburgh was chosen for the erection of a fortress by the Earl Thomas of Lancaster, cousin of Edward II of England. Contruction started in 1313 and was complete for the greatest part in 1322. Fearing a Scottish invasion, John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster (1340-1399) reinfocred the fortifications and converted the great twin gatehouse into a keep. The Scots never attacked Dunstanburgh though.
The War of the Roses (1455-1485) rang the death knell for Dunstanburgh. Besieged twice by the Yorkists, the castle sustained considerable damage and was never repaired. By the middle of the 16th century it had decayed into ruins. Acquired by the state in 1929, the castle is now owned by the National Trust and is managed by the English Heritage.
Early 14th Century Origins
Dunstanburgh Castle was commissioned by Thomas, 2nd Earl of Lancaster, and construction began in 1313 on a rocky headland between the villages of Craster and Embleton. Built atop earlier Iron Age earthworks, the castle’s design capitalised on natural coastal defences and featured a massive twin-towered gatehouse, a deep surrounding ditch and extensive curtain walls. Records show that by spring 1313 labourers were excavating the moat and erecting towers; by March 1319 the first constable was appointed, indicating the fortress was largely operational by then. Thomas intended the castle both as a refuge from royal forces during his conflict with Edward II and as a bold statement of his wealth and influence.
Late Medieval Transformations
Following Thomas’s execution in 1322, Dunstanburgh passed to the Crown and later into the Duchy of Lancaster. In the 1380s John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, modernised its defences against Scottish incursions and domestic unrest. He converted the original south gatehouse into a keep, added a secondary western gatehouse with barbican, and strengthened the curtain walls. Despite these improvements, Gaunt found the castle insufficiently secure during the Peasants’ Revolt of 1381 and sought refuge elsewhere. The fortress served as a Lancastrian stronghold during the Wars of the Roses, changing hands between the rival houses until its defences were breached and left ruinous by mid-15th century sieges.
Decline and Romantic Ruin
By the 16th century Dunstanburgh’s strategic value had waned with a more stable Scottish border and evolving military tactics. Monarchs neglected its maintenance, and in 1604 James I sold the estate into private hands. Over subsequent centuries the castle fell further into decay, its crumbling silhouette admired by artists such as J.M.W. Turner and inspiring poets with its melancholic grandeur. In the 1920s the ruins entered state care and today are managed by English Heritage. Visitors can explore the vast curtain walls, the impressive gatehouse keep and panoramic coastal views, all evoking centuries of political intrigue, warfare and architectural ambition.
Description
Dunstanburgh lies on a headland of igneous rock that is part of the Great Whin Sill, a geological formation stretching across Northumberland. Built on an area of 4.5 hectares (11 acres), the castle grounds are the largest in Northumberland - about twice as wide as the area comprised within Alnwick Castle's ramparts, and three time that of Bamburgh. The enceinte forms a sort of parallelogram with four sides of roughly 200 metres in length each.
The best preserved wall towers are the rectangular Constable and Egyncleugh towers on the southern side, and the Lilburn Tower, a turreted watchtower, on the high grounds of the northern rampart. Nothing remains of the castle itself, except half of the keep's twin-towered gatehouse.
Gatehouse and Bailey
Immediately striking is the silhouette of the twin-towered gatehouse, once the castle’s formidable entrance and now a monumental shell of D-shaped turrets. Visitors approaching along the narrow, grassy path from Craster or Embleton first glimpse this great gateway, its archway flanked by sheer drops to the North Sea. Beyond it lies a vast, empty bailey, the hollowed interior revealing only the grass-covered foundations of long-vanished halls and chambers.
Western Towers and Views
To the west, the remains of Lilburn Tower command broad views northwards over Embleton Bay, its rectangular walls framing the curve of golden sands below.
Eastern Walls and Sea Gate
Along the eastern curtain wall, the squat form of Egyncleugh Tower perches above a sea-carved inlet, the irregular line of the stonework tracing the contours of the rocky shore. Sections of curtain wall continue to descend to a narrow postern gate at the water’s edge, where at low tide the stony foreshore and tidal pools lie exposed.
Wildlife and Landscape
The castle’s setting is as much an attraction as its architecture. On clear days, the cliffs resound with the calls of kittiwakes, fulmars and razorbills nesting in crevices. Skylarks circle above the open grassland, while grey seals drift offshore.
Atmospheric Qualities
The shifting light of dawn and dusk transforms the ruin’s pale sandstone, throwing its jagged edges into dramatic relief. A bracing sea breeze carries salt spray across the heights, lending the atmosphere an exhilarating crispness.
Getting There
By train Take an East Coast Main Line service to Alnmouth for Alnwick, then hop on the Arriva X18 bus to the fishing village of Craster and enjoy a 1.3-mile stroll along the coastal path to the castle.
By coach Regional coaches, including the Arriva X18 and Travelsure 418, set you down at Craster Harbour; from there the same clifftop track threads north-east to the headland.
By car Leave the A1 at Alnwick, follow the B1340 signs for Craster, park in the large quarry car park on the edge of the village and walk the final mile beside the windswept Northumberland Coast Path to reach Dunstanburgh’s dramatic ruins.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Dunstanburgh Castle is during the late spring and summer months, from May to September, when the Northumberland coast enjoys its mildest weather and the castle’s dramatic ruins stand out against vibrant green landscapes and blue skies. During this period, the longer daylight hours offer ample opportunity for exploration and photography, while wildflowers and seabird activity bring added life to the surrounding cliffs and shoreline. Early morning or late afternoon visits are especially rewarding, as the castle is bathed in golden sunlight and the area is quieter, allowing for a more atmospheric and peaceful experience.