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Newcastle upon Tyne

Tyne Bridge viewed from Quayside, Newcastle-upon-Tyne (© Chris Renney | iStockphoto.com)

Introduction

Newcastle-upon-Tyne (pop. 275,000 ; with suburbs 800,000) is the largest city in North-East England. It is a city of contrast, with a strong industrial past, and yet has more listed classical buildings than any other city in Britain. Newcastle is also renowned for its modern architecture, such as the stunning Sage Gateshead and the photogenic Tyne Bridge, that have contributed in giving the city a reputation for cool, hipster culture. The city has a thriving restaurant and bar scene and some excellent museums and art galleries.

Home to a section a Hadrian's Wall, guardian of the Roman Empire's northern borders for 300 years, Newcastle also played the role of border city during medieval times, as attested by its grand Norman keep, the New Castle, to which it owes its name.

The locals are known as the Geordies, which is also the name of the dialect of English spoken in Tyneside. Like other northern dialects, Geordie remains closer phonetically and in vocabulary to the Northumbrian Anglo-Saxon dialect, thus featuring many characteristics of Old English lost in Standard English. For example, words like "house" and "about" are pronounced like "hoose" and "aboot", while "alright" sounds like "alreet" and "town" like "toon". The Geordies are known to be proud, hard-working, energetic and positive - all qualities that must have once been vital to survive in a harsh weather border town .

Newcastle is well known among football fans for its premiership football club, Newcastle United. The city's St. James's Park Stadium is the second largest football stadium in the United Kingdom, with a capacity of 52,000.

The city has two universities : Newcastle University and Northumbria University. The former was founded as Durham University's School of Medicine and Surgery in 1834, and became an independent university in 1963.

France, Belgium, Germany, Italy, Sweden, Norway and Iceland all have a consulate in Newcastle.


Interesting Facts about Newcastle-upon-Tyne

  • Newcastle's history dates back to Roman times, with the settlement originally known as Pons Aelius, named after Emperor Hadrian who built a fort and bridge there in 122 CE.
  • The city's iconic name derives from a Norman castle built in 1080 by Robert II, the eldest son of William the Conqueror.
  • Newcastle was a key fortress settlement in the 12th century, playing a crucial role in frontier defences against Scotland.
  • The city boasts seven bridges crossing the River Tyne within half a mile, including the famous Tyne Bridge which is said to have inspired Sydney Harbour Bridge.
  • Newcastle's Mosley Street was the first in the UK to be lit by electric light in 1879, thanks to inventor Joseph Swan's incandescent lamp.
  • The city has a unique tradition of communal cattle grazing on Newcastle's Leazes Park and Town Moor, dating back to the 13th century.
  • Newcastle's Grainger Town area, developed between 1835 and 1842, contains some of the city's finest architecture, with 244 listed buildings.
  • The Victoria Tunnel, originally built to transport coal, was later used as an air-raid shelter during World War II.
  • Newcastle United's official photographer invented the windscreen wiper after driving back from the FA Cup Final in London in 1908.
  • The Hoppings, said to be the largest travelling funfair in Europe, is held annually on Newcastle's Town Moor.

History

The River Tyne and Quayside, Newcastle Upon-Tyne (© Paul Knowles | iStockphoto.com)

Newcastle was founded by the Roman emperor Hadrian between 120 and 128 CE. It was just a small Roman settlement of 2,000 people along Hadrian's Wall. The Romans built a stone-walled fort in 150 CE to protect the river crossing. The settlement took the name of that bridge, Pons Aelius.

After the Roman departure from Britain in the early 5th century, the region of Newcastle became part of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Bernicia, then from 634 to the kingdom of Northumbria, although there is no evidence of.settlement from that period in Newcastle itself. The seventh century became known as the 'Golden Age of Northumbria', when the area was a beacon of culture and learning in Europe. Many monasteries sprang up in the Tyne and Wear valley, like those of Monkwearmouth, Hexham and Jarrow. Around the 9th century, a village at the location of present-day Newcastle became known as Monkchester. The Danes raided and pillaged monasteries in Northumbria from 793, and Monkchester's turn apparently came in 875.

In 1069, rebellion against the new Norman rule took place in the whole of Northumbria. The Northumbrians then marched on York, were defeated by William the Conqueror, then attacked York again later in the same year. In 1080, William Walcher, the Norman bishop of Durham and his followers were brutally murdered at Gateshead. This time Odo, bishop of Bayeux, Willia's half brother, devastated the land between the Tees and the Tweed. This was known as the 'Harrying of the North'. Robert Curthose, son of William the Conqueror, erected a wooden castle there in the same year, and the town took the name of Novum Castellum, the Latin for "New Castle".

Castle Keep, Newcastle-upon-Tyne (© Gail Johnson | Dreamstime.com)

Newcastle served as the main fortress defending England's northern border with Scotland during the Middle Ages. By 1275 Newcastle was the sixth largest wool exporting port in England. The principal exports at this time were wool, timber, coal, millstones, dairy produce, fish, salt and hides. Much of the developing trade was with the Baltic countries and Germany.

A number of religious houses were established within the walls between the 11th and 13th centuries. Among them were the Benedictine nunnery of St Bartholomew (founded in 1086), the Dominican Blackfriars (1239), the Carmelite Whitefriars (1262), the Franciscan Greyfriars (1274), the Augustinian Austinfriars (1290) and the Order of the Holy Trinity (1360). All of the religious houses were closed in about 1540, when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries.

In 1400 Henry IV granted a new charter, which separated the town, but not the Castle, from the county of Northumberland and recognised it as a "county of itself" with a right to have a sheriff of its own. By 1547, about 10,000 people were living in Newcastle.

In 1644 the Scots crossed the border. Newcastle strengthened its defences in preparation. The Scottish army, with 40,000 troops, besieged Newcastle for three months until the garrison of 1,500 surrendered.

Coal played an important role in the local economy well before the 19th century. Coal was being exported from Newcastle by 1250, and by 1350 the burgesses received a royal licence to export coal. From 1530 a royal act restricted all shipments of coal from Tyneside to Newcastle Quayside, giving a monopoly in the coal trade to a cartel of Newcastle burgesses known as the Hostmen. From the Industrial Revolution, coal mining became backbone of the economy. Some of the world's earliest railway lines linked Newcastle to the collieries in surrounding villages. Newcastle developed a major shipbuilding industry, but was also active in locomotive manufacture, glassmaking, pottery and armaments.

In the 18th century, Newcastle was the country's fourth largest print centre after London, Oxford and Cambridge. Newcastle also became the greatest glass producer in the world.

Central Newcastle was entirely rebuilt in classical style between 1824 and 1839. It is the work of a partnership between two architects : Richard Grainger and John Dobson. In 1849, the High Level Bridge, designed by Robert Stephenson, opened to carry road and rail traffic across the Tyne Gorge.

The city aquired its own university in 1963 and its Metro in 1978. The 1990's and early 2000's saw a major redevelopment, with new offices, restaurants, bars and residential accommodation, as well as some impressive works of modern architecture, such as the Gateshead Millennium Bridge.


Main Attractions

Grainger Town, Newcastle-upon-Tyne (© Redeyed | Dreamstime.com)
Sage Centre, Gateshead (photo by Jimfbleak - CC BY 2.0)

The historic heart of Newcastle is known as Grainger Town - named after the architect that designed its classical streets, Richard Grainger (1797-1861). It is lined with elegant shopping streets and limestone buildings reminiscent of Bath or Oxford. Built between 1824 and 1841, the classical centre changed Newcastle from a city of bricks and timber to one of stone. Its landmarks are the Grainger Market, the Theatre Royal, and Grey's Monument. The main streets of interest are Grey Street, Grainger Street and Clayton Street.

You can get a glimpse at some fine Jacobean architecture and interiors at at Bessie Surtees House, in fact two adjoining town houses that belonged to 16th and 17th-century merchants. It is also the regional office of the English Heritage.

Older still, the Black Gate was built during the reign of Henry III (1216 -1272) to reinforce the New Castle. The Castle Keep itself dates from the 1170's and replaced a wooden motte and bailey style castle from 1080 built on the site of the Roman fort. Newcastle's Castle and the Black Gate lie to the east of Newcastle Central Station.

The construction of the Newcastle town wall started around 1265 and had six main gates. Remains of the West Walls can be seen , on the western side of the city, such as Stowell Street or Orchard Street. From the same period, the Blackfriars was used as a monastic retreat for 300 years. The friary was renovated in the 1990's. It is close to the city's Chinatown.

Bridges and modern architecture

Newcastle conjures up images of bridges over the River Tyne. There are actually seven bridges in the city. The most famous is the iconic Tyne Bridge (built in 1928). The newest bridge is the Gateshead Millennium Bridge, a pedestrian and cyclist tilt bridge connecting the city centre to the south bank district of Gateshead. The bridge is often referred to as the 'Winking Eye Bridge' due to its elliptical shape and its rotational movement.

The tubular glass structure known as The Sage Gateshead is a centre for musical education and a performance hall. Completed in 2004, its construction cost over £70 million, amidst some local controversy.

Gateshead is also home to the Riverside Sculpture Park, and more importantly Antony Gormley's Angel of the North - one Britain's most famous work of public modern art. The steel sculpture representing an angel (or Icarus figure?) stands at 20 m (66 feet) tall, with wings spanning 54 m (178 feet) across. The sculpture was constructed between 1994 and 1998 and cost £1 million. It stands on a hill on the southern edge of Low Fell, about 2 miles south of the river.

The area around New Bridge Street has been pedestrianised as part of the Millennium Art scheme. An art comptetion was held by the city council in 1996. The winning designer, Thomas Heatherwick, used special blue tiles made from glass and resin to create the so-called Blue Carpet. The idea was to emulate an imaginary carpet that had fallen from the sky and was left the way it landed.

Gasteshead Millenium bridge over the River Tyne, Newcastle-upon-Tyne (© Jason Junkers | iStockphoto.com)
The Angel of the North near Gateshead (photo by David Wilson Clarke - CC BY 2.0)

Hadrian's Wall

A substantial section of Hadrian's Wall has been preserved around Newcastle. There are three good place to visit it. The closest to the centre is Segedunum Roman Fort, Baths & Museum, in the eastern suburb of Wallsend. It is just a few minutes' walk from Wallsend Metro and Bus Station.

Further east is the similar Arbeia Roman Fort & Museum at South Shields. It is ten minute walk from South Shields Metro and Bus Station.

The third is visible at Tynemouth Priory & Castle, on the edge of the North Sea. It is about 5 minutes walk from Tynemouth railway station. This was the very eastern end of the wall - a strategic location serving as a bastion throughout English history, not just against the Scots, but also against potential invasions from the sea during the Napoleonic Wars and the two World Wars. An Anglian monastery was founded at Tynemouth in the 7th century, but destroyed by Danish Vikings. The present castle dates from 700 years ago, and became a royal castle under Henry VIII, then a fortress until 1945.

If you want to follow the wall by bicycle or on foot, Hadrian's Cycleway start from Tynemouth, and the Hadrian's Wall Path National Trail from Wallsend, and continue all the way to Carlisle and beyond.

Heritage railways

If you fancy a day to the countryside from Newcastle, you could ride and old steam train. After all the region is home to the world's first railway, the Stockton and Darlington Railway (opened in 1821) in nearby County Durham. There are two alternative to choose from.

The Tanfield Railway runs on part of a former colliery wooden wagonway intended to transport coal from the hinterland to ships on the River Tyne. The oldest part of the tracks dates from 1647. The surviving 1725 Sunniside to Causey section is now the world's oldest working railway. It operates preserved steam and diesel industrial tank locomotives on a Stephenson gauge. The northern terminus is at Sunniside, Gateshead, which makes for easy access from Newcastle. The southern terminus at East Tanfield, County Durham, 3 miles (5 km) to the south.

The other possibility is the Bowes Railway, built by George Stephenson in 1826. It is the world's only preserved operational standard gauge cable railway system. It also departs from Gateshead, with destination Blackham's Hill and Springwell village.

You can learn more about steam and electric locomotives at the Stephenson Railway Museum.

Tynemouth Castle & Priory (© Darren Turner | Dreamstime.com)
St Mary's Lighthouse, Whitley Bay (© Gail Johnson | Dreamstime.com)

Whitley Bay

A few miles east of Newcastle is seaside resort town of Whitley Bay. Its golden sand beaches are very popular with people from North East England and Scotland in summer. The main attraction is St. Mary's Lighthouse on St Mary's Island, in the northern section of Whitley Bay.


Top Museums

Discovery Museum

Located in the heart of Newcastle, the Discovery Museum is a captivating journey through Tyneside's rich heritage. Housed in the former Co-operative Wholesale Society building, this museum opened its doors in 1934 and has since become a cornerstone of the city's cultural landscape.

The museum's centrepiece is undoubtedly the 34-metre long Turbinia, the first ship to be powered by steam turbines. This revolutionary vessel, designed by Tyneside engineer Charles Parsons, once held the title of the fastest ship in the world and now serves as a testament to the region's engineering prowess.

Visitors can explore a vast array of exhibits spread across three floors. The 'Story of the Tyne' gallery offers a comprehensive look at the river's significance to the region's development, while the 'Working Lives' exhibit showcases the industrial heritage of the North East. The museum also houses an impressive collection dedicated to the history of the Northern Cavalry regiments, spanning over 300 years of military history.

For families and young visitors, the Science Maze and PLAY + INVENT spaces provide hands-on experiences with scientific principles and encourage creative thinking. The museum's commitment to interactive learning makes it an ideal destination for school trips and curious minds of all ages.

Great North Museum: Hancock

Nestled within the Newcastle University campus, the Great North Museum: Hancock is a venerable institution that has been enlightening visitors since 1884. Originally known as the Hancock Museum, it underwent a significant renovation in 2009, emerging as a modern facility while retaining its Victorian charm.

The museum's collection is remarkably diverse, covering natural history, archaeology, and ethnography. Its Ancient Egyptian gallery is particularly noteworthy, featuring two authentic mummies and a wealth of artefacts that offer insights into life along the Nile thousands of years ago.

The Roman Frontier gallery is another highlight, showcasing the museum's extensive collection of artefacts from Hadrian's Wall. This exhibit provides a comprehensive look at life in Roman Britain, including military equipment, everyday objects, and architectural remnants.

Nature enthusiasts will be enthralled by the museum's natural history collection. The Living Planet gallery features an impressive array of taxidermied animals from around the world, while the Fossil Stories exhibit takes visitors on a journey through prehistoric times. The full-size T-Rex skeleton replica is a particular favourite among younger visitors.

The museum also houses a planetarium, offering regular shows that explore the wonders of the cosmos, making it a truly multifaceted educational experience.

Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art

The Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art stands as a beacon of modern creativity on the south bank of the River Tyne. This striking building, once a flour mill, has been transformed into one of the UK's largest dedicated contemporary art institutions.

Since its opening in 2002, the Baltic has played a pivotal role in the cultural regeneration of the Gateshead Quayside. With no permanent collection, the centre instead hosts a constantly evolving programme of exhibitions and events, showcasing work from both British and international artists.

The Baltic's 2,600 square metres of exhibition space are spread across six floors, allowing for expansive and immersive installations. The centre has hosted works by renowned artists such as Antony Gormley, Damien Hirst, and Yoko Ono, cementing its reputation as a world-class venue for contemporary art.

Visitors can also enjoy panoramic views of the Newcastle-Gateshead skyline from the viewing platform on Level 5, or indulge in fine dining at the rooftop restaurant. The Baltic's commitment to education is evident in its extensive programme of talks, workshops, and events, making it a hub for artistic discourse and learning.

Laing Art Gallery

The Laing Art Gallery, founded in 1904, is a treasure trove of British art and craftsmanship. Named after its founder, Alexander Laing, a Newcastle businessman and art lover, the gallery has been at the forefront of the city's cultural scene for over a century.

The gallery's collection is particularly strong in British oil paintings, watercolours, and ceramics from the 18th to the 20th centuries. Visitors can admire works by renowned artists such as J.M.W. Turner, John Martin, and Thomas Bewick, the latter being a celebrated Northumbrian artist known for his wood engravings.

The Laing's 'Northern Spirit' gallery celebrates the achievements of artists, manufacturers, and innovators from the North East of England. This permanent exhibition showcases everything from Roman artefacts to contemporary craft, providing a comprehensive overview of the region's artistic heritage.

Japanese art enthusiasts will appreciate the gallery's collection of 19th-century Japanese ceramics and prints, including works by ukiyo-e masters like Hiroshige and Hokusai. The gallery also boasts an impressive silver collection, featuring pieces that span from the Tudor period to the present day.

Regular temporary exhibitions ensure that there's always something new to discover at the Laing, often bringing major touring shows to the North East.

Seven Stories — The National Centre for Children's Books

Situated in the Ouseburn Valley, Seven Stories is a unique museum dedicated to the art of children's literature. Spread across seven floors of a converted Victorian warehouse, this enchanting venue celebrates the magic of storytelling and the enduring appeal of children's books.

The museum houses a vast collection of original manuscripts and illustrations from some of Britain's most beloved children's authors and illustrators. Visitors can explore changing exhibitions that bring favourite stories to life through interactive displays, dressing up opportunities, and storytelling sessions.

Seven Stories is not just a museum but a living, breathing celebration of children's literature. It regularly hosts author events, workshops, and performances, making it a vibrant hub for young readers and aspiring writers alike. The museum's archive is a valuable resource for researchers and includes works by authors such as Philip Pullman, Judith Kerr, and Enid Blyton.

The museum's commitment to fostering a love of reading is evident in its carefully curated bookshop and its outreach programmes, which work with schools and communities across the North East.

Newcastle Castle

Newcastle Castle offers visitors a journey back in time to the city's medieval roots. Comprising the Castle Keep and the Black Gate, this ancient complex has witnessed over 1,800 years of history and played a crucial role in the city's development.

The Castle Keep, built between 1168 and 1178, is one of the finest examples of a Norman stone keep in Britain. Visitors can explore its great hall, chapel, and king's chamber, gaining insights into medieval life and the castle's defensive capabilities.

The Black Gate, added in the mid-13th century, served as the castle's barbican. Today, it houses an interactive visitors centre that brings the castle's history to life through multimedia displays and hands-on exhibits.

From the top of the Castle Keep, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the city and the River Tyne, appreciating how the landscape has changed over the centuries. The castle also offers a programme of events throughout the year, including historical reenactments and guided tours that delve deeper into Newcastle's rich past.

The Biscuit Factory

The Biscuit Factory, despite its name, is not a place of confectionery production but rather the UK's largest independent contemporary art gallery. Housed in a former Victorian warehouse in Newcastle's cultural quarter, this unique venue has been showcasing and selling contemporary art since 2002.

Spread across two floors, the gallery presents a diverse range of art forms including paintings, sculptures, ceramics, jewellery, and prints. The Biscuit Factory prides itself on supporting both established and emerging artists, with a particular focus on talent from the North East.

The gallery's exhibitions change quarterly, ensuring a fresh experience for repeat visitors. In addition to the main gallery spaces, The Biscuit Factory also houses artist studios, providing visitors with the opportunity to see creators at work and even commission bespoke pieces.

The venue's top floor is home to The Factory Kitchen, a popular artisan café that offers stunning views over the Newcastle skyline. The Biscuit Factory also hosts regular events, including artist talks, workshops, and craft fairs, making it a dynamic hub for the city's creative community.

Hatton Gallery

The Hatton Gallery, part of Newcastle University, has been at the forefront of the city's art scene since it first opened in 1925. Named after Professor Richard George Hatton, the gallery has played a significant role in nurturing artistic talent in the North East.

The gallery's collection spans from the 14th century to the present day, featuring works by both historical masters and contemporary innovators. Notable pieces include paintings by Francis Bacon, Richard Hamilton, and Victor Pasmore, as well as an impressive collection of prints and drawings.

One of the Hatton's most famous exhibits is Kurt Schwitters' Merz Barn Wall, a pioneering piece of installation art created in the 1940s. This unique work, rescued from a barn in the Lake District, exemplifies the gallery's commitment to preserving and showcasing groundbreaking art.

The Hatton regularly hosts temporary exhibitions that explore various themes and artistic movements. Its connection to Newcastle University ensures a steady stream of fresh perspectives, with many exhibitions curated by students and faculty members.

Stephenson Steam Railway

Located in North Shields, the Stephenson Steam Railway celebrates the region's railway heritage. The museum is named after George and Robert Stephenson, father and son engineers who played pivotal roles in the development of the steam locomotive.

The museum houses a collection of vintage locomotives, passenger carriages, and goods wagons, many of which have been lovingly restored. The star of the collection is undoubtedly the 'Billy', a steam locomotive built in 1826 that is one of the oldest surviving steam locomotives in the world.

Visitors can take a ride on a restored heritage train along a scenic stretch of the former Blyth and Tyne railway line, offering a unique glimpse into the golden age of steam travel. The museum also features interactive exhibits that explain the science behind steam power and the impact of railways on industrial development.

Throughout the year, the Stephenson Steam Railway hosts special events, including Santa specials during the Christmas season and photography days for railway enthusiasts.


Local Cuisine

Local specialties include the iconic stottie cake, a dense, chewy bread perfect for sandwiches, and the indulgent Parmo, a breaded chicken or pork cutlet topped with béchamel sauce and cheese. For a taste of the sea, try Craster kippers, a smoked herring delicacy from the nearby fishing village. The Saveloy dip, a sausage sandwich drenched in gravy, is a popular lunchtime treat, whilst pan haggerty, a comforting potato and cheese dish, showcases the region's love for simple, flavourful food. For those with a sweet tooth, singing hinnies, a type of griddle cake, are not to be missed. Newcastle's evolving food scene also embraces international flavours and trendy eateries, making it a exciting destination for food lovers.


Shopping

Newcastle is a shopper's paradise with a wide range of retail options. The city centre boasts Eldon Square, one of the UK's largest shopping centres, housing over 150 stores including major brands and department stores. Northumberland Street, the main shopping thoroughfare, features flagship stores and high street favourites. For a more unique experience, the historic Grainger Market offers over 100 independent stalls selling everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. The Quayside Sunday Market is perfect for locally-made goods and artisanal products. Just outside Newcastle, in Gateshead, shoppers will find the Metrocentre, one of Europe's largest shopping malls with over 300 shops. The city also caters to luxury shoppers with designer boutiques and high-end retailers scattered throughout the centre and along Grey Street, often cited as one of the UK's most beautiful streets.


Nature in and around Newcastle

Newcastle boasts several parks and green spaces, including Jesmond Dene, a picturesque wooded gorge featuring the enchanting Jesmond Dene Falls. This tranquil oasis is home to diverse wildlife, including red squirrels, otters, and kingfishers. Just north of the city centre lies the expansive Town Moor, which is larger than London's Hyde Park and Hampstead Heath combined. Nature enthusiasts can visit Gosforth Nature Reserve, a 61-hectare woodland and wetland habitat where over 1,600 species have been recorded, including roe deer, badgers, and rare orchids. The Ouseburn Valley offers a network of green spaces, while Exhibition Park provides a unique blend of nature and history. For those willing to venture slightly further, the Rising Sun Country Park and Saltwell Park offer additional opportunities to enjoy the region's natural beauty and wildlife.


Getting There & Around

By train, the city is served by frequent direct services from London King's Cross via LNER, with the fastest journey taking under three hours to reach Newcastle Central Station, which sits in the heart of the city centre. Other operators including Northern Rail and TransPennine Express provide excellent connections from cities such as Edinburgh, Leeds, Manchester, and York.

By coach, National Express and Megabus operate regular services to Newcastle Coach Station from destinations throughout Britain, with multiple daily departures from London Victoria Coach Station taking approximately six and a half hours.

By car, Newcastle is well-connected via the A1(M) motorway, which provides direct links to London, Scotland, and major routes across the country, whilst the A69 offers westward connections to Carlisle, Hadrian's Wall, and the Lake District, with ample central car parking available once you arrive.


Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Newcastle-upon-Tyne is from June to September, when the weather is warm and dry, offering the most pleasant conditions for exploring the city. During these summer months, temperatures range from 15°C to 20°C, with occasional heat waves pushing the mercury higher. This period boasts the longest daylight hours, allowing ample time to enjoy outdoor activities, stroll along the vibrant Quayside, and explore the city's numerous parks and green spaces. However, it's worth noting that this is also the peak tourist season, so expect larger crowds and higher prices for accommodation. For those seeking a quieter experience with milder weather and potentially better deals, the shoulder seasons of late spring (April to early May) and early autumn (September to October) can be excellent alternatives. These months still offer comfortable temperatures and the chance to enjoy Newcastle's rich cultural offerings without the summer throngs.



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