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Siena Travel Guide

Siena, Tuscany (© fotowinnie - Fotolia.com)

Introduction

Siena, a medieval city in Tuscany, sits atop three hills approximately 48 kilometres south of Florence. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is centred around the shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, where the renowned Palio horse race takes place twice each summer. The city's remarkably preserved medieval architecture includes the Gothic-style Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, adorned with works by Donatello and Michelangelo, and the striking Palazzo Pubblico with its 102-metre Torre del Mangia bell tower. The historic centre comprises 17 distinct districts (contrade), each with its own symbols, churches and traditions, whilst beneath the city lies a 27-kilometre network of medieval tunnels and aqueducts that still function today.


Interesting Facts about Siena

  • Siena was founded by Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus from Roman mythology, who allegedly brought the iconic she-wolf symbol to the city.
  • The city hosts the Palio di Siena, a historic horse race held twice annually in Piazza del Campo, dating back to the 17th century.
  • Siena is divided into 17 medieval districts called Contrade, each with its own museum, traditions, and rivalries.
  • Beneath the city lies a 27km network of medieval tunnels called Bottini, designed to supply water through an ingenious aqueduct system.
  • The Black Death of 1348 halved Siena's population, abruptly ending its golden age and leaving cathedral expansion plans permanently unfinished.
  • Siena's historic rivalry with Florence culminated in the 1260 Battle of Montaperti, a victory still celebrated by Sienese locals today.
  • Monte dei Paschi di Siena, founded in 1472 and based in Palazzo Salimbeni, is the world's oldest surviving bank.
  • The 102m-tall Torre del Mangia in Piazza del Campo offers panoramic views from its summit after climbing 400 steps.
  • Siena's Gothic architecture remains exceptionally preserved, earning its historic centre UNESCO World Heritage status.
  • The city's unique Y-shaped layout converges on Piazza del Campo, following ancient Roman road paths that remain unchanged for centuries.
Aerial view of Siena (ID 48002856 | © Krisztian Miklosy | Dreamstime.com)

History

Siena's history stretches back approximately 3,000 years, beginning as an Etruscan settlement inhabited by the Saina tribe. During the reign of Emperor Augustus, it developed into the Roman colony of Saena Julia, though a fascinating local legend attributes its founding to Senius and Aschius, the sons of Remus, who allegedly fled Rome with the famous statue of the she-wolf—a symbol that would become intimately connected with Siena's identity.

The city's golden age began with the establishment of the Republic of Siena in 1125, marking the end of episcopal control. Under the rule of the Noveschi from 1287 to 1355, Siena experienced remarkable political and economic prosperity, commissioning magnificent structures such as the Cathedral of Siena, the Palazzo Pubblico, and extensive city walls. The city flourished as a prominent centre for money lending and wool trade, becoming one of medieval Europe's most significant commercial, financial, and artistic hubs.

However, Siena's prosperity faced significant challenges in the 14th century, including devastating outbreaks of the Black Death beginning in 1348. Despite fierce resistance lasting 18 months, the republic ultimately surrendered to Spanish forces in 1555, marking the end of its independence. Two years later, Philip II of Spain ceded the city to Florence, and in 1861, Siena became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy. Today, Siena's medieval character remains remarkably well-preserved, as most modern development has occurred outside the city walls, making it an extraordinary testament to its historical legacy.


Main Attractions

Piazza del Campo

The heart of Siena, Piazza del Campo, is a marvel of medieval urban planning and one of Europe's greatest medieval squares. This unique shell-shaped piazza is paved with red brick arranged in a fishbone pattern, divided into nine sections by strips of travertine. These divisions symbolise the Council of Nine, Siena's governing body in the 13th and 14th centuries. The piazza slopes gently towards its centre, creating a natural amphitheatre effect. This iconic square serves as the venue for Siena's famous Palio horse race, held twice each year on July 2 and August 16. During these events, the square transforms into a racetrack, filled with spectators eager to witness this centuries-old tradition. Even on non-Palio days, Piazza del Campo buzzes with life, its cafes and restaurants offering perfect spots for people-watching and soaking in the atmosphere of this historic city.

Palazzo Pubblico on the Piazza del Campo, Siena (ID 19343228 © Bogdan Lazar | Dreamstime.com)

Palazzo Pubblico

Dominating one side of Piazza del Campo, the Palazzo Pubblico stands as a magnificent example of Gothic civic architecture. Built between 1297 and 1310, this imposing structure served as the seat of Siena's government for centuries and continues to house the city's municipal offices today. The palace's facade is a striking blend of stone and brick, adorned with elegant Gothic windows and crowned with crenellations. At its centre, a large copper disc bears the monogram of Christ, added in the 15th century. The Palazzo Pubblico's interior is equally impressive, featuring rooms adorned with frescoes by some of Siena's most renowned artists. While many of these artworks are now part of the Civic Museum, the building itself remains a testament to Siena's medieval power and artistic legacy.

Torre del Mangia

Rising dramatically from the Palazzo Pubblico is the Torre del Mangia, Siena's iconic bell tower. Constructed between 1338 and 1348, this slender tower reaches a height of 102 metres, making it one of the tallest medieval towers in Italy. The tower's name, which translates to "Tower of the Eater," comes from its first bell-ringer, Giovanni di Duccio, nicknamed "Mangiaguadagni" for his tendency to spend all his money on food. The tower's elegant design features a stone belfry atop a brick shaft, crowned with a marble loggia. For those willing to climb its 400 steps, the Torre del Mangia offers unparalleled panoramic views of Siena and the surrounding Tuscan countryside. At the tower's base, the Cappella di Piazza, a small marble chapel added in 1352, serves as a reminder of Siena's gratitude for surviving the Black Death.

Fonte Gaia

Gracing the upper end of Piazza del Campo, Fonte Gaia (Fountain of Joy) is a remarkable example of early Renaissance sculpture. The current fountain is a 19th-century replica of the original 15th-century masterpiece by Jacopo della Quercia. The fountain's name stems from the joyous celebration that erupted when water first flowed from it in 1346, marking the end of a massive engineering project to bring water into the city centre. The fountain's elaborate marble panels depict scenes from the Old Testament and allegorical figures representing virtues. Though the original panels are now preserved in the Santa Maria della Scala museum complex, the replica continues to be a focal point of the piazza, offering a refreshing respite on hot summer days and a glimpse into Siena's rich artistic heritage.

Fonte Gaia, Siena (ID 105787367 | © F11photo | Dreamstime.com)

Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena)

Although technically a museum, the Siena Cathedral deserves mention for its architectural splendour. This magnificent edifice, dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, is one of Italy's most impressive Gothic cathedrals. Its striking facade, adorned with intricate sculptures and mosaics, is a masterpiece of Italian Gothic and Romanesque architecture. The cathedral's interior is equally awe-inspiring, featuring a unique black and white striped marble design that echoes Siena's civic colours. Notable features include the exquisitely inlaid marble floor, Nicola Pisano's ornate pulpit, and the Piccolomini Library, famed for its vibrant frescoes by Pinturicchio. The cathedral's unfinished façade and the remnants of an ambitious expansion project serve as reminders of Siena's grand aspirations before the Black Death altered the city's fortunes.

Cathedral of Siena (ID 27744847 | Aerial Old © Stevanzz | Dreamstime.com)

Basilica of San Domenico

Perched on a hill overlooking Siena, the Basilica of San Domenico is a monumental church dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, this vast brick structure is an excellent example of Italian Gothic architecture. While its exterior may appear austere, the basilica's interior houses significant religious and artistic treasures. The highlight is the Chapel of St. Catherine, where the saint's preserved head is displayed in a gilded reliquary. The basilica also features notable frescoes and artworks, including pieces by Il Sodoma and Francesco Vanni. The church's elevated position offers stunning views of Siena's skyline, making it a popular spot for both pilgrims and art enthusiasts.

The Contrade

While not a single attraction, Siena's seventeen contrade (districts) are integral to understanding the city's unique culture and history. Each contrada has its own distinct symbol, flag, and colours, which are proudly displayed throughout its territory. These districts play a crucial role in the Palio, with ten contrade competing in each race. Exploring the narrow streets of these neighbourhoods offers insight into Siena's medieval urban layout and the strong sense of community that persists to this day. Look out for the contrada fountains, each adorned with the district's animal symbol, and the small museums that house Palio memorabilia and district artefacts. During the days leading up to the Palio, the contrade come alive with festive dinners, parades, and blessing ceremonies, providing a unique glimpse into Siena's living traditions.


Top Museums

Civic Museum (Museo Civico)

Located within the magnificent Palazzo Pubblico, the Civic Museum is a treasure trove of Sienese art. The museum houses an exceptional collection of frescoes, including masterpieces by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti. Visitors can marvel at the famous "Maestà" and the "Allegory of Good and Bad Government", which offer profound insights into Siena's political and cultural history.

The museum's collection extends beyond frescoes, featuring sculptures, paintings, and artefacts that span several centuries. The Sala del Mappamondo, with its impressive frescoes by Simone Martini, is a particular highlight. The room once housed a rotating wooden map of the known world, which, although no longer present, gives the room its name.

Santa Maria della Scala

Once a medieval hospital, Santa Maria della Scala has been transformed into one of Siena's most important cultural centres. This vast complex houses multiple exhibition spaces and museums, offering a diverse range of artistic and historical experiences. The museum is particularly noteworthy for its accessibility, with all rooms being wheelchair-friendly.

Visitors can explore the ancient pilgrims' hall, adorned with frescoes depicting the hospital's history, and the archaeological museum in the basement, which showcases Etruscan and Roman artefacts. The complex also includes a children's museum and hosts temporary exhibitions, making it a dynamic and ever-changing cultural hub.

Fresco in the old hospital of Santa Maria della Scala, Siena (ID 76185318 | © Antonella865 | Dreamstime.com)

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo

This museum houses many of the original artworks and sculptures from Siena's cathedral. The centrepiece is Duccio's famous Maestà altarpiece, a monumental work that once adorned the cathedral's high altar. The museum also displays sculptures by Giovanni Pisano that originally decorated the cathedral's facade, as well as other liturgical objects and artworks.

The museum's top floor offers a panoramic view of Siena, providing visitors with a unique perspective of the city's skyline and the unfinished nave of the cathedral.

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, Siena (ID 137935708 © Jcartwright01 | Dreamstime.com)

Pinacoteca Nazionale

The Pinacoteca Nazionale is a must-visit for art enthusiasts, showcasing an unparalleled collection of Sienese paintings. This gallery is home to works by renowned artists such as Duccio di Boninsegna, Simone Martini, and the Lorenzetti brothers. The museum provides a comprehensive overview of the Sienese school of painting, allowing visitors to trace the evolution of this distinctive artistic tradition.

The collection is housed in the Palazzo Buonsignori, a beautiful 15th-century palace. In addition to Sienese works, the museum also features paintings from other Tuscan schools, offering a broader perspective on Italian Renaissance art. The gold-ground paintings from the 13th and 14th centuries are particularly striking, demonstrating the unique style that made Siena a major centre of medieval and Renaissance art.

Art Museum for Children

This unique museum is designed to introduce young visitors to the world of art. Located on the third floor of its building and accessible by lift, it offers interactive experiences and tactile materials, making it an excellent destination for families.

The museum's exhibits are designed to engage children through play and hands-on activities, fostering creativity and an appreciation for art from an early age. It's an ideal complement to Siena's more traditional art museums, offering a fresh and engaging approach to art education.

Natural History Museum of the Accademia dei Fisiocritici

For those interested in natural sciences, this museum offers a fascinating collection dating back to the mid-18th century. Highlights include unique anatomical preparations and terracotta models of mushrooms. The museum also houses manuscripts related to the history of science in Siena, providing a glimpse into the city's scientific legacy.

The museum's geological section is particularly noteworthy, featuring an extensive collection of minerals and fossils from the Tuscan region. The zoological collection includes specimens of local fauna, offering insights into the biodiversity of the area.

Risorgimento Hall

Situated within the Palazzo Pubblico, this room commemorates the unification of Italy and its first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. It offers visitors a glimpse into an important period of Italian history, featuring portraits, documents, and artefacts related to the Risorgimento movement.

Museo della Tortura

For those interested in more macabre aspects of history, the Museum of Torture provides a stark look at the instruments and methods of torture used throughout European history. While not for the faint-hearted, the museum offers historical context for these practices and their eventual abolition.


Local Cuisine

Siena's culinary heritage is a rich tapestry of robust flavours and time-honoured traditions. The city's signature pasta, pici, is a thick, hand-rolled spaghetti typically served with wild boar ragù or aglione (local garlic) sauce. The region is renowned for its Cinta Senese pork, a distinctive breed marked by a white belt around its body, which features prominently in local charcuterie such as finocchiona and buristo. Traditional dishes include the hearty ribollita stew, spleen crostini (known locally as crostini neri), and ossobuco alla senese. The city particularly shines in its confectionery, with delectable treats such as panforte (a dense fruit and nut cake), ricciarelli (soft almond biscuits), and cantucci (crisp almond biscuits traditionally dipped in Vinsanto wine). Local cheeses, particularly the celebrated pecorino from nearby Pienza, and seasonal truffles round out Siena's remarkable gastronomic offerings.

Ribollita, a typical dish of Tuscany (© Sergii Koval | Dreamstime.com)

Shopping

Siena offers a delightful shopping experience with its charming mix of traditional Tuscan craftsmanship and modern boutiques. The main shopping thoroughfares, Via Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città, are lined with chic clothing stores, artisanal shops, and local food emporiums. Here, shoppers can discover everything from handcrafted leather goods and vintage clothing to exquisite ceramics and traditional Sienese pastries like panforte and ricciarelli. The historic centre eschews modern shopping centres in favour of intimate, independently-owned boutiques, creating a more authentic retail experience. Every Wednesday morning, a vibrant market unfolds near the Fortezza Medicea, offering clothing, leather bags, and local foodstuffs, whilst an antiques market takes place every third Sunday in Piazza del Mercato. Most shops observe traditional opening hours of 09:30-13:00 and 15:30-19:30, with many closing on Monday mornings.


Nature in and around Siena

Siena offers several enchanting natural spaces within and around its historic centre. The Medici Fortress features a beautiful surrounding park where visitors can stroll along ancient walls whilst enjoying exceptional views over the city. Just a few hundred metres from the famous Piazza del Campo lies the Orto de' Pecci, a breathtaking corner of countryside in the heart of the city that serves as a peaceful retreat from urban life. This medieval urban garden, once part of the city's Psychiatric Hospital, has been beautifully restored and now provides a tranquil green space for relaxation. The city also boasts several verdant valleys within its walls where nature and architecture intertwine unexpectedly, including the Botanical Gardens near Porta Tufi which showcase typical Tuscan plants alongside exotic and aquatic species. These green spaces not only provide welcome respite from Siena's aristocratic palaces and monuments but also host various cultural, musical and sporting events throughout the year.

Orto Botanico dell'Università di Siena

While not a traditional museum, Siena's Botanical Garden is a living museum of plant life. Managed by the University of Siena, it houses a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. The garden includes sections dedicated to medicinal plants, succulents, and local Tuscan flora, offering visitors a peaceful retreat and an educational experience in botany.


Getting There & Around

Siena is easily accessible from major Italian cities, with Florence being the closest major hub offering 90-minute bus or train connections. From Rome, the journey takes 3-4 hours by train with a change at Chiusi, whilst Milan requires a 4-hour journey with a transfer in Florence. The nearest major airport is Florence (FLR), though Pisa and Rome airports also provide good connections. Once in Siena, the medieval centre is largely pedestrianised and best explored on foot, though be prepared for steep hills. The local bus network, operated by Siena Mobilita, provides reliable transport both within and outside the city walls, with tickets costing 1.50 euro. Small Pollicino buses navigate the historic centre's narrow streets, whilst larger buses connect to suburban areas from the main terminal at Piazza Gramsci. For those with hotel reservations, driving into the restricted traffic zone is permitted for parking, with several car parks available outside the city walls. Taxis can be found at Piazza Matteotti and the train station, whilst cycling is possible though challenging due to the hilly terrain.


Best Time to Visit

The most favourable time to visit Siena is during the spring months from April to May or in autumn from September to early October. During these periods, you'll encounter mild, pleasant temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C, perfect for exploring the medieval streets and historic landmarks. These shoulder seasons offer a delightful balance of comfortable weather and fewer tourist crowds, allowing for a more relaxed experience of the city's charm. Spring brings blooming landscapes and fresh atmosphere, whilst autumn treats visitors to stunning golden colours and harvest festivals. Though summer months, particularly July and August, feature the famous Palio di Siena horse race, they tend to be quite hot and crowded. Winter, from December to February, offers the quietest period with the lowest prices, though some attractions may have reduced hours.